Yep, I have good friend in Bolzano... another really great café culture. Oddly, he barely speaks Italian. They speak Romansh there! Now that's a very wierd language. I know this because he stayed at my house for 6 weeks in the mountains of Mexico and would talk very loudly and clearly in his sleep. Lumberjack. Strongest right arm I ever saw... We made money once betting on arm wrestling in a bar. Not one fellow beat him and back then, he was a scrawny, late 20's dude!