I'm on Windows 10, think Marc is on Windows 11. It's kind of just like the others, just gotta get used to them. Took me a while. what I hate is the damn thing updates on it's own, grrrrr. I get my browser tabs back but lose my open docs that I have to try to remember what they were.
I usually go go to google to find out how to navigate around or just play around some times. You'll get used to it.
Hope these help
How To Use Windows 11! (Complete Beginners Guide)
Flobewan, this is the first post for me on Ihub this year I believe. Not knowing if you work with windows anymore but I'm curious to know if windows 11 has any popularity. For myself, having purchased a laptop a few months ago with 11 on it I'm having a difficult time navigating. Laptop works just fine. I just can't seem to
find consistency. Is 11 any good?
Thanks for trying. I still get the Print Failed message when I try it that way.
I'll just use Edge or FF for printing. No biggie.
On Chrome click on the 3 dots on the top right, then click print, MAKE SURE YOU SELECT THE RIGHT PRINTER It could be set up for the wrong one.
The printer comes up like it's supposed to but when I press the print button it gives me a message:
Something went wrong when trying to print. Please check your printer and try again.
Hmmmm, I don't have Chrome, I'll check with Hubby, thinks that's what he uses. Try Ctrl P
FF works fine for me as does Edge. Just Chrome doesn't work.
I use FF, did you go to File, print.
Your memory hardware is different than your hard drives. But it can be lots of things.
The light you see most likely is your hard drive spinning up. Even new computer with those new hard drives called ssd's still show activity lights. That's just for people to at least know the computer is doing something.
If you're up to it, if you haven't looked in the computer box for quite some time, simple physical maintenance for free may help. You can manually go in and do dust clean up off the cpu fans, power supply and case fans. There's a large bunch of cables that end in a big white connector that comes from the power supply and connects the the Mother board, which everything else is usually handled. That can be pulled and blown out for starters. Another thing to try if able is to find your memory sticks, pull each one at a time, blow out the slots they come from, wipe the metal connector strip with a soft cloth and reinstall them.
Computers vibrate and over time can loosen devices.
Win10 has a couple of installed programs you probably should try as well and they won't hurt you. Go to lower left 'START' > WINDOWS ADMINISTRATION TOOLS > WINDOWS MEMORY DIAGNOSTIC, choose it, then select the first option in the pop up window. Make sure you save anything you were working on and follow the instructions.
This is a good program and the results are strongly dependable.
I should have asked what is your computer level or experience as a user.
I believe nwsun stated he/she can't find any of the dots at all.
I don't have any ideas myself, I don't use goog knowingly.
I have a HP desktop w/ Win10 on it.
Sometimes when I start it up a light on the front will start beeping and blinking red a few times then repeat.
Sometimes I have to shut it down and restart it a couple of times Then it will boot up.
I've taken it to a shop and of course nothing happens and have been told everything is fine.
From what I've read on the internet it is the memory,
Does that mean my hard drive is dying?
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
Click the 3 dots in your text and select trash, then edit, select message(s) and restore option at the bottom of the message. I believe messages will be available to restore for 30 days after deletion.
Can this Help board answer questions about Android apps? I accidentally deleted a text string and I can't find how to restore it..Google said use Google Drive and then the three dots on the top right but there's no three dots or anything similar. The text app is Text by Google. Thanks if you can help.
It was a lan setting in device manager that was set to wake on lan. Easy fix. I prefer to let my PC's sleep, so whatever I've been doing is ready to go when I return. If I need to clear data/open programs for performance reasons, that's easy as well. It can be done manually... but I have used System Mechanic for many years. There's a few aggravating popup notices to add more time and get a year for $10.... reg price is over $60. I have over two years remaining, lol. It's a good program that helps to clean/speed things up....
Yes, almost all that wake on stuff is under power settings now. I've never used 'sleep' in any mode with a desktop and have always turned all that stuff off. Your nic also needs that stuff turned off if you don't want something waking up your computer.
I don't like the thought of windows being able to turn my system back on in the middle of the night to run shit. I turn off my power strip every night. Been doing that since win dos.
Some good stuff there.
I don't recall what it was causing that PC to awake from sleep, but I solved it... think I found a link written by a guru. Might have been wake on lan needed to be unclicked....
And, I cleaned up my startup menu, and also went into services and disabled a bunch, making sure not to disable any system services unless I knew it was safe to do so. I still use the memory mechanic function within System Mechanic now and then, but, even with lots of Chrome tabs open and a couple other programs running, the mem usage is rarely above 11 of the 32 gb now.
Well, that looks like it will run any extra power demands of a gpu, connector wise.
I have to look back at the gpu I liked for more details of power demand.
And still has 5 years to go on the warranty. lol
This is the PSU EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 G3, 80 Plus Gold 1000W, Fully Modular
Thanks. I'll send a email on the next happy hour, if only to pick your cpu.
What I've done all along is a straight clone from the boot drive to a new drive making that the boot and then mounting that in, pulling the old one out, and doing it again for the second drive as 1. New boot clone, 2nd drive I: still installled and a new drive in spot 3 which is just given a random drive letter and recognized like that then I clone my I: to that one.
Result is two new drives and two fresh back up drives. Then I rotate the whole thing again some time later when I feel it's been long enough.
I don't know about all that downloading of windows and then to get all my files over to it because none of the windows upgrades and migrations ever completely worked. That's how I became a cloner.
Another thing about websites selling shit, they never list the boring stuff like what kind of connectors are with the power supply. You have to drill down in the site or download a manual just to know basic things needed to buy.
Yes I'm a little behind the curve I guess. Does that evga have gpu power extra's.
I'm thinking intel this time throughout. Except for ram.
I had duped a link this is the gpu...
I have bought a whole slew of W 10 keys for $10-15 ea.. Mostly from a couple guys on hardforum that have left. They always work! SCDKey is good..and safe, I hear. https://www.scdkey.com/?sscid=51k7_17aao
I have a 1000 w EVGA Gold PSU, fully modular, that works fine, but was in my house fire. The heat melted the glue on the labels.... It's yours for a fair price. t, Are you using a discreet GPU? If not, 650 watts should be fine. I do know that, at least, the 13900K draws a lot more power than my Ryzen chips.
That Intel SSD may not be the fastest, but is about the cheapest gen 3 one I've seen yet.
I don't recall ever using MBR.. at least not for any of the builds I've done since 2016.
Have you built any pc's? If you want to use your old M.2, leave it out on first boot, just to KISS.. Put the new one in slot 1, go to MSFT and download a windows 10 .iso onto a flash drive, go into bios and set that USB to boot first. Download windows... Later, add any drives with data... if you have an os on any, you should probably remove it, or make sure that the PC is set to ONLY boot from the OS drive (set in bios)
Glad to help... more needed, pm me an email addy
Thanks. I use Macron clone. I download the newest free version, then uninstall it after. I'm expecting them to disable full cloning to force purchase soon. They stopped just straight free to a 30 trial day now.
I'll check on that WD SN850X for pricing comparison. I've used wb, samsung and toshiba without much fails. Maybe no fails. knock on wood...........
The computer build sites almost all only list what they want you to buy that I found so far.
Haven't found one yet that just lets you input and gives you feedback if it will work.
And windows is still 150.00 installed.
Not to be too ignorant, but I just realized I'm not sure how the new ssd would boot up when first powered on if purchased direct. Wouldn't be initialized right?, so maybe I need to have the hd installed before booting and the two ssd may show up? Oh boy...
Intent was native nvme slots, Midrange intel MB has two, not adapter pci. I was under the impression that one had to go with gpt for trim and ssd function and mbr would not work with ssd?
Hard to get info because almost all online is trying to sell something even the company websites of the drives.
None of the stuff I'm looking at is bleeding edge. I don't have the budget for it. The list is still over a grand. And I'm not even sure my 650 power would work with the new stuff. Might have to upgrade that as well. Most graphic programs and games are just about requiring 16gig graphic cards now.
The bottom has fallen out of SSD prices. 18 or so months ago, a 2 tb SSD failed. Adata sent me a new one (they called it refurb) Have had it for sale in various places. (orig cost ~$225 maybe 3 years ago) Turned down an ebay offer of about $185, (before the 13-14% ebay fees) Don't recall any other offers. New, the price is now down to maybe $100!! Broke it open a month ago and used it as the boot drive for a new to me X58 motherboard which I put in an old full tower case and added existing parts. (2010 vintage--- triple channel memory and they overclock very well)... My first X58 build was 2010. First gen Intel Core i7 Back then, I didn't know it, but I bent some cpu socket pins, PC always worked but with only 4 of the 6 ram sticks functional. Technically the ram is double channel now. It always worked, though, then I added a 6 core Xeon cpu (~$1400 new, 20-35 on ebay ) about 2017 and then overclocked it from 2.8 to 4.0 Ghz. Gurus get 4.6 out of the system!
Upgraded the old X58 build to an SSD long ago, but that one is Sata 2, so max speeds are 300 mbps. The 2nd old mb has two Sata 3 ports and USB 3. I even got two HDD'S working in raid, which doubled their speed to about 300.. not bad. That's faster than the SSD boot drive as it is in a Sata 2 port. That generation was the first SATA 3. No way to get the connected drives to be the boot drive --and the Marvel controller is wonky.
It's easy to clone HDD to SSD.. Lots of programs. hard to find one that's free and fully feaured, though GPT seems the way to go....
I also duplicate my files rather than backing them up, so each copy's files can be easily viewed and altered . I have many 10-16 tb HDD's now, so am set for quite some time as my photo/video library grows. You should have two copies of all important data..that's three total..
One thing that would really speed up your file access is to install a PCI-e to NVMe adaptor in an available slot closest to the cpu. If your mb is PCI Gen 2, that NVMe drive will deliver over 3x the speeds of any 2.5" SSD. Inm my two Gen 4 systems, my best drives top out at 7400 mbps... that's~14 times faster than a 2.5" SSD!! Gen 5 doubles that to 15000!!!
Depending on your mb vintage, you might even be able to find a modded bios that could make said NVMe SSD bootable. I've read that it is possible on my X58 system (2009-2011 vinatge)
By the way, I got the first NVMe drive back in early 2017,iirc. 500 gb Samsung 950 Pro--cost--over $300 .Well, I upgraded two 970 Evo + from 500 to 1 tb a month ago. Got them for $55 each!! Told ya SSD prices have crashed even the newish NVMe! ~18 mo ago, I bought two 2 tb Samsung 980 Pro drives for $500 Sold one on FB mkt place for $300 the next day. @ weeks ago, I bought a 2 tb WD SN850X For $135!! Even faster than the 980 Pro. I have two each in my best two PC's, one of the four is 1 tb. Boot times are a few seconds, and editing images/videos is smooth and fast. I download new images to the 2nd of those fast drives and do my editing there... Back them up when I'm mostly done to a couple HDD's. I should make two copies right off the bat when taking them off the memory card.... and then erase the copy later, that hasn't been edited. (Mental note... do that, rb!!)
I have Windows 11 on 2 laptops, but prefer W 10....Was surprised to hear rumors of W 12 being in the works...
Thanks. I have to get into ssd as even games are not liking the old hd's.
My sole way of backing up my total system was cloning, plus the win upgrades of course.
Cloning has always worked for me in getting into newer faster bigger HD all this time.
Now, I don't want win11 that new systems come with and have priced out parts that may still fit in my case. But almost a complete rebuild inside.
I have been reading about how to clone hd's to ssd's and going from mbr to gpt. I'm hoping more recent clone software will do this. A round about way I'm sure, but having two ssd's, and a available sata port may work. I'm thinking pulling the second ssd out, plugging in the c: hd and booting up with win11. Then maybe cloning c: hd to the win11 ssd which would wipe the ssd and clone c:/ win10 to it, then set the ehci in the ehci bios for booting ehci. If this is successful, it should be fairly simple to clone my second hd to the second ssd and have essentially the same 2 drive system again. Fortunately, almost all new MB's still have a sata somewhere on it. Even ssd sata drives, but why pay that kind of money and have only sata speeds out of a ssd?
Think that will work? I really really do not want win11, but that may be forced soon enough to shove win12 down our throats.
Be safe and nice reading from you. 'I don't have audio on, so I don't 'hear from' you.''
Sleep mode is fine. It uses barely any resources... and hibernate mode even less. Basically, these modes leave your windows open and any work in progress stored in system memory, which then takes barely any power to maintain.
I usually leave my laptops plugged in when not in use, which isn't a great practice for optimum battery life. A practice to keep batteries lasting longer before they need replacement is to set the charge system to shut off at about 80%. I'd think most laptops have this feature. I don't know why I don't have it set. Lazy, probaby.
To corroborate my comment about sleep mode, I'll do a simple test. I will put a fully charged laptop in sleep mode then disconnect the charger. I'll then leave it be overnight or longer and see what the battery percentage of charge is. My guess---90-98%...
3.5 months later, I see and answer ya!!!
I'm an overclocking neophyte. But I'm quite sure the latest Intel products o'clock a bit more.
I finally have the parts switched into that huge case, but have yet to try overclocking the 5950x cpu. Have to really read up on it and watch tutorials. But it is a beast anyhow.
The EVGA 3080Ti Ultra GPU is easy to overclock, and then benchmarks well above the stock 3090Ti's scores (which retailed for way more $)
FWIW: 5 secrets only cybersecurity pros and hackers know
By Kim Komando March 17, 2023 9:55am Updated
Some security steps are common knowledge. I don’t need to remind you to install that latest update on your computer, right?
Others are less obvious. Do you lock your computer every time you get up? Unless you live alone, you should. Here’s the easiest way to do it if you’re lazy.
On your phone, you’d probably never guess leaving your Bluetooth connected 24/7 is a mistake. Here’s why — and what to do if you can’t live without your AirPods.
I’ve got your back with more secrets only tech pros know to keep you safe and secure.
1. See if someone is secretly getting copies of your emails
I always get calls to my national radio show from people concerned that someone is watching everything they do.
One of the first steps I recommend is: Make sure your inbox is locked down. Here are steps if you notice or suspect any usual logins.
• Log in to your email, then go to your account or security settings.
• You’ll find an option that allows you to view your recent login activity or login history. It will be labeled something like “Recent Activity,” “Security,” or “Login History.”
• Pro tip: Use Gmail? Click the Details link next to the Last account activity at the bottom of any Gmail page.
• Review the list of recent logins. See anything that isn’t you or one of your devices? You may see a strange location, too.
If you spot an unknown location or a device that isn’t yours, act fast. Change your password, be sure two-factor authentication is turned on, and log all devices out of your account.
2. Make sure your printer didn’t get hacked
Like your computer, your printer is a goldmine for hackers. Why? Printers often store copies of the docs that have been printed. Any cybercriminal could get copies of sensitive information, like your financial records.
Here are three signs your printer has been hacked:
1. Your printer starts printing blank pages or a bunch of characters.
2. You notice print jobs you did not initiate.
3. Your printer’s settings have changed — and it wasn’t you.
What should you do?
• Unplug the printer. Press and hold its Reset button, usually on the printer’s back or bottom.
• While holding the Reset button, plug the printer back in, and turn it on. In about 20 seconds, lights will flash to indicate it’s done.
3. There’s a hidden location tracker on your iPhone
I recommend you look through the location settings on your phone. That will go a long way in shutting down a lot of the GPS tracking. But you can’t stop there.
Why does your phone tell you how long it’ll take to get to the office or knows your ETA to the grocery store when you get in the car for Saturday morning errands? That’s part of Significant Locations.
Apple says this feature exists so your phone can learn places significant to you and provide personalized services, like traffic routing and better Photos Memories.
Here’s how to access it — and shut it down.
• Open your iPhone’s settings, then tap Privacy & Security.
• Select Location Services.
• Scroll down and tap System Services.
• Scroll until you see Significant Locations and tap that.
If you don’t want your iPhone to keep track of your whereabouts, slide the toggle next to Significant Locations to the left to disable the setting.
Want to wipe out this list of significant locations? Follow the steps here.
4. You can wipe your phone if you lose it
The very idea of your phone in someone else’s hands is creepy. Imagine a stranger rifling through your photos, videos, apps, conversations, and browser tabs.
So what if your phone goes missing? You can take a step to protect your info, even if you never get that phone back.
To remotely erase your iPhone:
• Open iCloud.com/find and go to the Find iPhone feature.
• Select your lost phone, then select Erase iPhone.
To remotely erase your Android phone:
• Go to android.com/find and sign in to your Google account. Select your lost phone, and you’ll get information on its location.
• When prompted, select Enable lock & erase.
• Select Erase device to wipe its data.
Check out my guide here for more methods to find, back up, or erase your phone.
5. Apps are desperate for you to share the juicy details
Social media companies are dying to get their hands on your contacts’ birthdays, pictures, full names, email addresses, and more. They tell you it’s a handy tool to find your friends, but your friends’ info isn’t yours to give away. That’s their own to decide where to share.
From your address book, companies build so-called Shadow Profiles. They can learn a ton from those you know, even if they’re not using those platforms. Sneaky stuff.
How can you make a difference? Don’t give apps access to your phone’s contacts. Review which apps do have access and turn it off. And always pay attention and stop sharing info without a real benefit to you.
Even your phone number is powerful in the wrong hands.
FebSmart PCIE-4-port-USB-3.0 card I installed is now working after every boot up or restart (since Saturday).... All I did was create a manual System Restore point while the card was working then selected that one to restore to.
Good Luck, I just let Marc fix everything, LOL
Hi Flo. Yes, I have tried to Disable Renesas in System Configuration which also changes the General tab from Normal startup to Selective startup (which doesn't seem to make any difference to the way anything else operates). There's obviously some kind of conflict between the hardware & software but I can't find it. Going to try a different "cheap" multi-port card to see what happens.
Some of the things I've tried:
I've uninstalled Renesas Electronics via Programs and Features, rebooted and re-installed the Renesas drivers from the FebSmart website and from the mini CD that came with the card...Sometimes the card will work again after doing this, sometimes it won't -- I haven't figured out what exactly I have done when it decides to work the next time...
I've tried using a different motherboard PCI slot with no change in the card's behavioral operation...When it works, it will continue to work as long as the computer is left on (tested by leaving the computer running for days at a time)...It always survives Sleep mode and sometimes it will still work after a Restart or after a cold boot but sometimes it will not.
The problem could be within the power supply (650 watt Gold) or one of the peripherals that are plugged in to the machine -- EG a cheap mouse, keyboard, the dual display video cards, the USB video adapters one of the monitors (8 in total) etc. etc.
All I wanted was to add some extra USB 3.0 ports to plug more stuff into...
(more stuff that will cause other issues LOL) - - might be asking for too much.
After-all, it is a 10+ year old build that's been running 10-14 hours a day, every day, using an operating system that's obsolete...nothing lasts forever.
I take it you took it out of startup
Some issues I have with Win 10 - can't wait for Win 12 to come out!
MS has eliminated many of the things from Win 7 including user control of what consumers
might think was their personal property ...It's becoming more obvious all the time.
Windows 7 running on a 12 year old home-build machine
Windows 10 running on a 3 year old Dell Optiplex 9020
Still trying different "options" such as Dark mode to see if I can read the window text better...
I have Windows 10 on my desktop PC. I have several shortcuts on my desktop that I created thru Google.
Lately I will click on a shortcut and it goes to the my Google home page. I then have to create a new shortcut for that particular site.
I don't have this problem with Windows 10 on my laptop.
Any suggestions?????? TIA
I keep my computer on all week and shut it down weekends so jic there are any new updates and it needs to power off that takes care of it.
YW. Keep in mind, it's only an opinion.
There are other folks who are far more savvy.