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Anyone is welcome to post pictures that they have taken themselves. Any subject (Within the terms of Ihubs posting rules) is welcome here.
The camera's I use the most, both Pentax (And share lens-mounts of the same type) are my older K10D and the newer K50D.
Both have robust sealing to prevent dust and moisture intrusion. (But NOT waterproof, about 70-something seals and O-rings)
The K10 is the best-build, all-metal frame, metal latches on battery door and mem-card door, but is a 10-megapix (jpeg and RAW format)...and low-light capacity is extremely-poor.(Tops out at 32000, I won't even use ISO's over 400.)
The newer K50 is smaller, lighter and has ISO's up to 64000. I prefer ISO's below 200, above that noise creeps in. The K50 is acceptable in the 400-600 ISO, after that, 800 is 'so-so' the noise gets severe above 1200 ISO.
In the woods I usually have the 70-300mm telezoom/macro tamron lens on for most situations. For 'Wide-angle' shots (Landscapes, mostly)
I use the 'Kit-lens' (that came with the K10) that has a 'Neewer'-brand HD 0.45X Super Wide Angle lens that attaches directly to the kit lens or to the UV-filter that is already in place. The 'Kit lens' is the Pentax 18-55 zoom, this lens has NO aperture-ring. At the most extreme-wide angle, there is some 'viginetting' (Circular shadow around the edges.
For close-up detail, there's the 90mm Tamron Di-SP macro. This is fixed lens, no zoom capability at all. About 50% of my hummingbird shots are with this lens.
Cropped pix with 70-300mm,
Kitlens, modest wide angle
Macro 90mm,
To clarify the RF review, the batteries subject to drain are the one's in the reciever that attaches to the camera itself.
When on, the reciever consumes small amounts of power in the reciever, additional drain is from signalling the camera to 'Focus', or the shutter to actuate.
The remote-sender uses power only at the moment the button is depressed. In the time 6-sets of reciever batteries had been used, the sender is still on it's first set . I recommend Alkaline or Lithium batteries for critical-use, but have used Nicad's at home. (They last half of the alkalines)
Quite sometime later, the IR and RF-remotes I'd purchased are working great...within their own/each limitations.
The Infra-red remote has very limited-range (10 to 15 ft) and if your at a slight angle to the side of the camera's IR-sensor, it may fail to actuate the shutter/and or focus. (Best to manually set focus)
The Radio-frequency remote has astounding range (At LEAST 100 ft.)...never fails to trip shutter. The biggest drawback is battery-consumption. (Triple-A's) Always capable of 6-hour shoots, but longer than that, you would need to swap the batteries to be sure.
http://investorshub.advfn.com/boards/read_msg.aspx?message_id=83026070
Stunning ...!!!! great picture
Excellent quality. Some of the best shots of that Era were taken by "Photographic-Enthusiasts" serving in 'Nam.
Some incredible night-time photographs taken in Vietnam.
Return Fire
Cheers, PW.
Thank you.
Beautiful picture
Remotes. The 2 remotes I purchased thru Amazon work great. The Radio-remote has a much farther range than do the IR's (IR's are only real good at under 15 ft....or less.)
Canon Pro9000Mk2 continuous-inker,
http://www.inkxpro.com/Continuous-ink-system-for-Canon-Pixma-Pro9000-p/ciss-canon-pixma-pro-9000.htm
Epson R200...continuous-ink kit, $179
http://www.inkxpro.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=epson+stylus+photo+R200
New remotes,...Both work in test (Indoors, close range.) situations. The "incredably-cheap" $1.99 Infrared-remote works even better than the "factory" Pentax "F" or "E" models.
(Better range than the E-model, functions EVERY-time unlike the F model I had.)
Ordered a new remote (Actually 2) from Amazon, will review the performance of them after they arrive.
One is an "Ultra-cheap" infra-red remote to replace my $45 OEM-remote, the other is a RF, or "Radio-frequency" remote W/16 channel setting and a claimed-range of 100 feet. (Way farther than the IR-remote's range of 12-15 feet)
I was having an issue with the auto-focus on my pentax's lenses.
The autofocus was only working at the wide-open aperture settings. I cleaned the contact area on all the lenses and the camera-body with a Q-tip, isopropyl-alcohol and wiped dry with a micro-fiber cloth. Problem solved.
Followed that up with a sensor-clean, spots were evident in the image from dust/pollen. Actuated the "mirror-up" command thru the cameras menu, used a small, soft artist's brush to gently migrate the invisible (To the naked eye) particles to the bottom edge, and off the sensor. (My camera is equipped with an adhesive-strip below the sensor, that traps the particles)
To see if you have a need for a cleaning, point camera towards a uniform light-colored surface, set focus to infinity and take a picture. (I usually point to the light-blue sky, absent of any clouds) you can then look at the image on your computer and enlarge, searching for spots of grey, these are the dust particles. The image-sensor in the camera captures an Inverse-picture...Meaning if on your computer, you see spots at the top of the image, in actuality...they are on the bottom-part of your camera's sensor.
Camera stores will clean cameras for a fee, if anyone finds spots, but are unsure if they want to DIY. Expect to pay between $75 and $125 for this service.
Photography and digital editing for users photos.
Discussions of equipment, software and technique.
A place to share photos and "How-to's" with everyone. If photos you wish to post are not your property, please get permission first!
Especially may be of intrest to those printing pictures at home, review printers that you like/dislike..and why. And comments are welcome about
ink-cartridge reloading, different texture papers and editing/effects.
If your photo has been modified, (Other than adjustments to light/hues) please include that information, especially any digital-effects added.
Such as converting a photo in Photoshop to simulate oil-paintings
Or sketches
Or fakes, like this floating-flashlight, changed in photoshop to conceal supports holding it,
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