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Id_Jit

12/11/06 4:50 AM

#3736 RE: beigledog #3735

BD,

so he started messing around with it and pulled out the first spark plug and it was covered in oil. Then it was pretty funny...he said "I've never seen that before!" He told me that we had a valve cover gasket that had a leak in it and needed to be replaced

I’ve seen that before. AND I’m not a mechanic by trade. There are more ‘valve cover gaskets’ around the recesses in the valve cover where the spark plugs are located. Yup! Time for a new valve cover gasket kit. Funny (or not) how your mechanic had never seen that before but knew the solution.

As to the Spark Plug wires: Dunno. Only if the wires’ insulation has soaked up enough oil to cause them to expand. If they are old, replace them after replacing the valve cover gaskets… Just because.

As to the Spark Plugs: If they’re old, replace them. Just because they’re cheap! If they’re new, then question your mechanic as to why, and report back here.
That’s a veiled trick question for your mechanic,


Much more information is required from you as to why your Wife’s car won’t start or cuts out on the freeway…

Id

Mr. Zen

12/11/06 11:59 AM

#3738 RE: beigledog #3735

beigle... my expertise with cars is from the pre computer days when cars were an easy fix, and I have restored my fair share of exotic junk.. but here are some questions

1. if the oil was on the plug itself then yes it is a valve cover gasket, if the oil was coated on the electrode inside the cylinder then it is a valve seal, or piston ring problem and that gets expensive..

2. that still does not explain the engine cutting out problem, unless the battery got so weak from the alternator not working that it lost all electrical charge.. did the alternator discharge light ever come on?? would it start again without a boost later on?? if it did it is a computer/ignition system problem, could be as simple as the ignition coil, or whatever that car uses, to boost the 12 volt power up to 18000 volts to fire the spark plugs.. that seems too easy.

3. changing plugs and wires is fairly straight forward, however look at the spark plug placement, if they are hidden behind a thousand gizmos they sometimes need specialized tools and/or removal from underneath the car. To change plug wires make sure you change one at a time and do not get the wires on the wrong plug. A good mechanic can change plugs and wires in under 1/2 hour, if you do it count on a saturday morning.

If it was my car I would change the plugs and wires, if it died again I would be car shopping, a happy wife is worth a car payment.

Bob Zumbrunnen

12/12/06 4:32 PM

#3743 RE: beigledog #3735

A failing alternator or failed one won't prevent an engine from running so long as the battery has enough juice. If anything, sometimes the car will be down on power because the coil isn't getting enough juice, but an alternator's main purpose in life is to charge the battery. It's only marginally involved in the continued operation of the engine once it's running.

The car just cutting out sometimes when driving down the road would never be an alternator problem unless the car dies and when you try to restart it, you don't even get so much as a click. If you've never had the engine fail to crank (it can crank without starting), your alternator's fine and so's your battery.

Oiled plug wires could explain it.

so he started messing around with it and pulled out the first spark plug and it was covered in oil.

I assume you mean the outside of the plug. If so, yes, it's a valve cover gasket and it's entirely possible for the car to be fussy about when it will and won't run on all cylinders.

The Taurus SHO (Yamaha V6 version) has its spark plugs situated between the camshafts and I'd assume this is a pretty typical layout anymore.

I was having an intermittent misfire problem with mine and the valve cover gasket turned out to be the exact culprit. The plugs in the rear cylinder bank were each immersed about 2 inches deep in oil, which had cracked the plug wire ends and softened the insulation on the plug wires. So sometimes the plugs would spark and sometimes they wouldn't.

Valve cover gasket, plug wires, and plugs had it running like a top.

Did you ever mention here what model of car you're dealing with and which engine?

With some cars in my past (and present, but not new) changing the valve cover gasket is a simple matter of four bolts and the PCV hose. Other cars (most of the ones I've got now) it's difficult to even SEE the valve covers, let alone remove them.

If it's as the guy at Advance thinks (and I concur), you're in for new plug wires (not a cheap date) and you might as well replace the spark plugs while you're at it (cheap insurance).

The thing to keep in mind on plug wires that I still do even on engines whose firing order I know like the back of my hand (1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2: Chevy smallblock, conjured from memory) is that you don't yank all the plug wires then replace them. You're almost guaranteed to get them wrong that way.

Remove one wire from the distributor and its spark plug, replace that spark plug, find the wire from the new set closest to that one in length, use it as the replacement, then move on to the next one.