Entree for a BD party, Saturday...
Short Ribs Braised in Porter Ale With Maple-Rosemary Glaze
Tuesday, January 31, 2006
The Oregonian
Makes 6 to 8 servings
If you have the time and forethought, beef short ribs benefit greatly from advance salting (see Step 2). This mini-cure will tighten the meat a bit, improve its texture, help it to brown more readily in the first step of the braise, and deepen its hearty taste. If you have no time for advance salting, simply skip Step 2, seasoning with a bit of salt along with the black pepper as directed.
If you braise the short ribs ahead of time (from a few hours to a full two days) and then glaze them just before serving, the dish will taste even better. The flavors meld and develop as the ribs sit. Simply complete the recipe through Step 9 up to two days before you plan to serve them. Pour the strained and reduced braising liquid over the ribs, let cool, cover and refrigerate. To serve, reheat, covered with foil, in a 350-degree oven until just heated through, about 25 minutes. Remove from the oven, and heat the broiler. Brush on the glaze and proceed as directed in Step 10.
3 1/2 to 4 pounds meaty, bone-in short ribs
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 large yellow onions (about 1 pound total), sliced about 1/2 inch thick
1 carrot, chopped into 1/2-inch pieces
1 1/2 cups porter ale, or more if needed (see note)
3/4 cup homemade beef, veal or chicken stock, canned broth or water
3 3- to 4-inch sprigs fresh rosemary (divided)
1 large or 2 small bay leaves
3 tablespoons pure maple syrup
1 tablespoon prepared horseradish
1. Trim any excess fat from the short ribs, but don't take off any of the silverskin or tough-looking bits that hold the ribs together.
2. One or 2 days before braising (optional): Arrange the short ribs in a loose layer on a tray or in a nonreactive dish. Sprinkle them all over with 11/2 to 2 teaspoons salt (there's no need to rub the salt into the meat) and cover loosely with wax paper or plastic wrap. Refrigerate for 1 to 2 days.
3. Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Pat the ribs dry with a paper towel, but don't try to rub off the salt. Season with pepper. (If you didn't salt the ribs in advance, season them now with both salt and pepper.)
4. Pour the oil into a Dutch oven or other heavy braising pot (4- to 6-quart) wide enough to accommodate the short ribs in a crowded single layer and heat over medium heat. Add only as many ribs as will fit without touching, and brown them, turning with tongs, until brown on all sides, about 4 minutes per side. Transfer the seared ribs to a platter, without stacking, and continue until all the ribs are browned.
5. Pour off and discard all but about a tablespoon of fat from the pot. If there are any charred bits in the pot, wipe them out with a damp paper towel, being careful not to remove the precious caramelized drippings. Return the pot to medium-high heat and add the onions and carrot. Season with salt and pepper and saute, stirring a few times, until the vegetables start to brown and soften, about 5 minutes.
6. Add the ale and bring to a full boil. Boil for 2 minutes, scraping the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon to dislodge and dissolve any tasty bits cooked onto it. Pour in the stock, bring again to a boil and reduce the heat to a simmer. Return the ribs to the pot, along with any juices released as they sat. Tuck one rosemary sprig and the bay leaves in between the ribs. The ribs should be partially submerged in the liquid. If necessary, add a bit more ale or water.
7. Cover with a sheet of parchment paper, pressing down so it nearly touches the ribs and hangs over the edges of the pot by about an inch. Set the lid securely in place. Slide the pot into the oven and braise at a gentle simmer, turning the ribs with tongs so as not to tear up the meat, every 40 to 45 minutes, until fork-tender, about 21/2 hours. Check after the first 10 minutes to see that the liquid isn't simmering too aggressively; if it is, lower the oven temperature 10 or 15 degrees.
8. While the ribs are braising, combine the maple syrup with the two remaining rosemary sprigs in a small saucepan. Heat to a gentle boil over medium heat. Turn off the heat, cover and set aside to infuse for 1 hour. (The glaze can be made a few days ahead and refrigerated.)
9. When the ribs are tender and the meat is pulling away from the bones, use tongs or a slotted spoon to carefully transfer them to a flameproof gratin dish or shallow baking dish that is large enough to accommodate them in a single layer. Try to keep the ribs on the bones and intact, but don't worry if some bones slip out. (Discard these clean bones, or save them for the dog.) Scoop out the vegetables with a slotted spoon and arrange them around the ribs. Cover loosely with foil to keep warm.
10. Tilt the braising pot to collect the juices in one end, and skim off as much surface fat as you can with a large spoon. If there is more fat than you care to skim off a spoonful at a time, transfer the braising liquid to a gravy separator and then pour the liquid into a medium saucepan leaving the fat behind. If the braising liquid exceeds 1 cup, bring it to a vigorous simmer over medium-high heat and cook it down to close to 1 cup, 10 to 15 minutes; it should have a syrupy consistency. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Keep warm.
11. Heat the broiler on high. If the glaze has been refrigerated, warm it slightly so that it's pourable. Remove the rosemary sprigs, lightly running your fingers down the length of the sprigs so you save every drop of glaze. Put the horseradish in a small strainer (a tea strainer works great) or in the palm of your hand and press or squeeze over the sink to eliminate as much liquid as possible, then stir the horseradish into the glaze. Brush the glaze on the tops of the short ribs. Pour the reduced braising liquid around the ribs. Don't pour it over the ribs, or you'll wash off the glaze. Slide the ribs under the broiler and broil until the surface of the ribs develops a shiny, almost caramelized glaze and you can hear them sizzle, about 4 minutes.
12. Transfer the ribs to serving plates -- the number per serving depends on the size of the ribs. Spoon the braising liquid around, not over, the ribs, and serve immediately. Note: Select an ale with some body and a smoky taste -- all the better if you can find one that's brewed locally. Stout will be too strong.
-- From "All About Braising: The Art of Uncomplicated Cooking" by Molly Stevens
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