is...probably trying to buy a stock
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It seemed like a good quarter...they just need to take care of the patent infringement stuff and I'd probably get back in.
Now I'm just ticked off. The opener is not working again. It'd doing the same thing (going down about a foot and then reversing). I'm going to call a few local garage door repair places tomorrow and if they can't help, I guess I'm just going to cut my losses and buy a new one.
Booyah CL001!!
Bring on weeks 2 and 3! This is my contest!
The garage door is fixed and is running wonderfully. The new RPM sensor did the trick. The five flashes of the green LED have stopped and everything appears to be working perfectly. It was a very easy fix..."even Beigledog could do it."
I got my 3rd estimate on the leak yesterday. I'll update you guys when I get the estimate back from him.
Our door is good. Everyone that has seen the door says it looks very good, no problems at all.
One guy told me that it was a $3,000 door. I said, "I'm glad I didn't pay for it!"
I have another estimate coming tomorrow. I'll bring up all of the questions then.
The sagging piece of wood (I think) is just a piece of trim...not a part of the header itself. I've had two people tell me that the header is fine...but I'll continue to ask each estimate that comes.
If nobody wants to fix cause of the problem...could I install the ice & water shield and replace the shingles myself? Is that something I'm capable of?
Could you give me some more info about the warrants? What price can they be excercised, etc.?
In my quick search, I can't find any details.
Get a buyout should help things this week.
FCC.to was acquired today.
Oh yeah...sorry about that. There is no access above the area.
No I think that's probably just a shadow. The gutter is bent down. There is no hole there.
What's the ticker for the Quadra warrants? I've been looking at that one.
FCC was on my watchlist, but oh well.
Phil...
Which are you talking about? The top arrow or the bottom arrow?
Mike...
I think you are right. The problem seems to be coming from where the wall insersects the shingles. If you look back at the pictures, the very bottom piece of siding was frozen solid with ice behind it when we got up onto the roof. I'm guessing that caused the problem.
One question for everyone...what can I do to fix them problem? Do I need to rip the section of the roof off...put ice and water shield on it and then replace the shingles? Is that the best thing? Neither of my two estimates have said anything about what they're going to do to the outside.
By the way...first estimate was $1,635. #2 was $275. I'm cheap, but I'm not stupid enough to believe that they are doing the same work.
First of all...you need to use question marks when you're asking questions. I can't tell if you're giving me an opinion or asking me a question. :) :) (I can't talk much though...I do the same thing. I usually always type periods out of habit and then go back and insert question marks.)
The next guy that gives me an estimate...I'll ask him about the copper pipe. I thought it looked kind of funny too, but I don't know any better.
There was definitely blown-in insulation when we opened it up. Actually a bunch of it fell on my wife when she was helping us...she was covered in the stuff (it was hilarious). I'll ask about the ventilation during the next estimate (which should be this afternoon or tomorrow).
The house was actually built in 79. We redid the kitchen when we moved in and I agree, it looks great. I think I've posted some more pics a couple of years ago if you want to see the whole kitchen.
The header is a little wet, but (at least to the touch) it has gotten much better. The first guy that did an estimate had some kind of moisture tester and it seemed to be better than when we pulled everything out.
We took the end cap off of the gutter to help the water drain since there was so much ice in the gutter.
I told my father-n-law that I wanted to replace that gutter anyway. I don't think it has the proper pitch and the water doesn't move toward the downspout like it's supposed to. There is a hole that was filled with a bolt and some caulking and this is the same gutter that caused the basement problems in the past. I'd be happy to rip the stupid thing down.
Since no one seems to care about the base metals and all of you guys are in love with gold...
FCC announced a higher offer today of $.65. Still sad though, because the stock was trading at $6 just 8-9 months ago.
Frontera agrees to back Southern Copper's C$42 mln bid
Wed Feb 4, 2009
Frontera Copper Corp (FCC.TO) said it agreed to support Southern Copper Corp's (PCU.N) proposed C$42 million ($33.93 million) buyout offer, which was 10 percent above the unsolicited bid by privately held Invecture Group.
Southern Copper's 65 Canadian cents a share cash offer represents a premium of 12 percent to Frontera closing price on Tuesday.
The support agreement provides for a non-solicitation covenant from Frontera, the right for Frontera to terminate the agreement in favor of an unsolicited superior proposal, and a fee of C$2.1 million to be paid to Southern Copper in case of termination.
Mexico's Invecture Group had offered to buy all outstanding shares of Frontera for 59 Canadian cents per share. Invecture's bid expires on Feb. 6.
However, in December, Frontera's board had asked shareholders to reject the Invecture offer as it undervalued the company's assets. [ID:nBNG381550]
Frontera shares, which have lost more than 70 percent of their value in the past six months, were trading up 7 Canadian cents at 65 Canadian cents on the Toronto Stock Exchange. ($1=1.238 Canadian Dollar) (Reporting by Krishna Chaithanya in Bangalore; Editing by Himani Sarkar)
Here are some more pics of the water issues.
This is us pulling off the plaster/drywall.
One view of inside.
Another view of inside.
Here's the roof:
A closer shot of the roof:
This is what it looks like now with the insulation board up. We're using it to keep the draft out (it's 13 degrees right now).
I'll get them up tonight.
I'll make sure I find out if it's worth it or not. I haven't even gotten an estimate back yet. I'll keep you guys updated, but the first guy told me he didn't want to do any work on it until all of the snow melted.
The wood was dry when we put the insulation board up.
I had an independent adjuster come take a look today and he said that in working with my insurance company, they are very good to their customers and it shouldn't be much hassle at all.
I have an acquaintanace at our church (friend of a friend) that owns his own reality company in the area. He suggested that I go with an independent adjuster to look at the damage. He told me that in claims that he has had at the rental properties that he owns they have gotten double what he would have gotten otherwise.
I set up a meeting with him at our house and if they can't help me (get a substantial amount above what the insurance company would give me) it will stop there. It seems like a win-win.
We were just talking about that same line last night at the Super Bowl party I went to. It was right after Holmes caught the TD pass.
We looked at heat tape on Saturday at HD.
It's $55 for a 60 section of the stuff! I think that only takes care of about 10 feet of roof. That's an expensive temporary fix!
I do have very cheap electric, so it's not the ongoing cost that concerns me, but I think I only need about a 10-12 foot section of heat tape to solve my problem.
Another alternative that my father-n-law suggested was to use a roof rake and make sure that I keep the snow off of the roof near the problem area for the rest of the winter.
http://www.amazon.com/Suncast-SRR2100-24-Inch-Shovel-21-foot/dp/B0007NY3DA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1233586455&sr=1-1
OurPet’s Announces Scott Mendes Appointed Chief Financial Officer
FAIRPORT HARBOR, Ohio--February 2, 2009--OurPet's Company (OTC BB:OPCO), a
growing designer, developer, producer, and marketer of accessory and consumable pet
products (www.ourpets.com), today announced that Scott Mendes has been named Chief
Financial Officer, effective February 2, 2009. Mr. Mendes will report to Steven Tsengas, PhD,
President and Chief Executive Officer.
Mr. Mendes will be filling a newly created position and will be replacing duties performed by the
Company’s controller John Murchie who is retiring. Mr. Mendes has a BA and an MBA from
Vanderbilt University. Mr. Mendes comes to OurPet’s from Safeguard Properties Inc. of
Brooklyn Heights, Ohio, where he was most recently the company’s controller. During Mr.
Mendes’ 12 years at Safeguard, his accounting controls and systems helped grow the company
from 35 employees with revenues of $7 million to 500 employees with revenues of $300 million.
Dr. Steven Tsengas, PhD, President and Chief Executive Officer stated, “For over eight years,
John Murchie has helped guide OurPet’s from a small start-up company with approximately 75
products to a leading designer, developer, producer and marketer of over 400 pet products. I
have enjoyed working with John and appreciate the hard work and dedication that he has given.
I wish John the best with his retirement. I am pleased to welcome Scott to OurPet’s. As a native
of Northeast Ohio, Scott is a highly ambitious, experienced, and motivated manager with a
background in both operations and finance. Scott’s experience will be very helpful as we
profitably growing our business.”
I think this is the first time I've ever made it out of the first round! Woohoo!
Now I get the mining man himself. Gold going to $700 would be nice.
My father-n-law got here Friday night and started poking a screwdriver through the ceiling. The water started to move a little faster, so we pulled the wet drywall off above the door (almost the entire length of the sliding doors and the ceiling above (about 8-10 inches away from the wall).
The header above the door was wet nearly the whole length of the doors. The diagonal beam above was also wet.
The ice is removed the from the roof (it got up to 40 degress yesterday...the warmest day in 2.5 months) and so the rest that we couldn't get to melted.
We cleared out the drywall, the wet insulation, and covered it with insulation board and duct tape (to hold the board in place) to keep the draft out.
So now, the plan is to call in a professional. I'm not sure what all will need to be done. Repairs to the roof, siding, frame/header, and drywall are all on the table, I'm guessing. The father-n-law refuses to do the drywall, so we stopped where we were, and I would guess that a repair to the header would be a little too much for him. I guess my options are to file a homeowners insurance claim ($1000 deductible) or to pay for it out of pocket.
I'll hopefully have some more pics up tonight, and I'll try to explain some more then. Without pics, it would be tough to explain.
I'm going to try to get some references and then get estimates. Any tips on how what I should do when I talk to them?
The roof is around 13-14 years old I think.
My next repair...
The garage door still isn't fixed...I'm waiting for the RPM sensor, but it was just shipped yesterday (I don't know why it took them so long...I ordered it Monday morning).
I've got a pretty good leak and it looks like it's causing some water damage. Anybody want to walk me through what I should do? I haven't found the source yet, but it's right above the sliding glass doors. Yes, the gutters are frozen solid. It only leaks when the snow melts (when it gets above 25ish degrees). I pried off the door frame last night to reveal a lot of moisture. If you look closely, you can see that the wood molding is obviously sagging. The ceiling is messed up somewhat too. Here are some pics:
The bracket above is for vertical blinds that I took down to remove the molding.
This is the ceiling above.
A wider view
From underneath, up close and personal
Mike...
Since you disconnect the trolley and still have a problem. Your issue is clearly with the opener and not the door.
1. I think you really need to use grease on the rail/trolley but maybe WD40 is OK.
Yeah, I thought of that too, but I'm pretty sure that this is not the problem anyway.
2. Check the safety sensors at the sides of the door to make sure that they are not obstructed. If they are obstructed the door will reverse. Also, if you press and hold the button on the wall (not the remote!) it will override these sensors. If you still have the problem when you press and hold then it eliminates these sensors as a problem.
I'll check this when I get home, but the lights on the sensors are green and I'm pretty sure that I remember that this means that they are aligned properly.
3. Are you sure that you have the force set to max and not min?
With some of the stupid things I've said on here, I guess I deserve this one, but yes, it's max. I've turned it clockwise as far as it will go.
4. What about the tension on the chain? There should be a slight sag in the chain. If the chain is too tight it could bind.
I'll check this when I get home too, but I've already loosened it a little bit
5. Check to make sure the interrupter cup is still on. Did it possibly fall off. You had the door working correctly for a while so maybe something happened.
I checked this this morning, it was still on there nice and tight.
6. Beyond that I would check the bearings on the gear and sprocket assembly. To do that you would need to remove the chain to check that there isn't any play in the sprocket. If you do that you will have to make sure you put the chain back on in the same position. You may have checked this already when you had everything disassembled so you might be able to skip this step.
You're right, I did this already.
7. If you check all of the above and it still fails I would try replacing the RPM sensor.
I'm still thinking that it's the RPM sensor. The five blinks of the green LED light seems to be a good indidcation.
Everything has now been lubricated with WD40 and still the same result, it moves about 12 inches and then reverses, with or without the chain connected to the trolley.
Any other suggestions?
I also just dropped a screwdriver (point down) right on my big toe...and I'm still in pain...OUCH!!
It's the trolley that's not moving...not the chain. If I pull the rope and let it run, it still only moves about a foot on the track.
I haven't lubricated things, but I'll try that.
The more I keep googling, the better chance I think it's the RPM sensor. Maybe it got damaged while I was messing around inside the box or something. The LED light blinks five times, just like it says at this link (search for RPM sensor to jump to the specific messages).
http://forum.doityourself.com/garages-carports/194172-relacing-plastic-gear-lift-master.html
This site also sounds a lot like what is happening.
http://www.justanswer.com/questions/1pxm7-trying-troubleshoot-liftmaster
Oh yeah..and by the way...I fixed the wall unit. It was just a broken wire like I thought.
Well that's good to know...my door also has a big rubber piece that seals the garage.
But...I'm back to it not working again. After the adjustments I made this afternoon...it worked, but now it's back to only going down part of the way. The down force is to the max and I can't turn it anymore. The spring is good (it stays put when I manually open it halfway) and it doesn't appear to me to be any obstructions.
Any more ideas out there?
Ok...so I think we're back in business again. This thing is messed up! To get the door to go down all the way, I had to adjust the force to the maximum...then backed it down to about the middle eventually.
However, I couldn't get it to pass the 1 inch board test. It wouldn't reverse until I turned the travel way too much and then it would reverse. However, the next time I tried it, it was back to only going down a few inches. I then had to put it back to maximum force and repeat the whole process over again.
Right now, I haven't passed the 1 inch board test, but it looks to me like it's all the way down and the force is on maybe 5 out of 9. That's good enough for me, unless you guys say otherwise.
Another issue with the garage door.
Yesterday my wife called me and said that the door wouldn't close all the way it kept reversing on her. First it only went down a few inches and then reversed. Then when she hit the button again, it went down a foot and then reversed. The next time it went down halfway and reversed. Then finally went all the way down and stayed there.
I didn't believe her at first because it worked fine for me, but now it's happening to me too. Any ideas? I thought about adjusting the down force, but why is it so random?
Have you ever bought property outside of your home area? Do you recommend it? Discourage it?
Here in upstate NY, there is very few "deals" because property values never went up in the housing bubble. I have family in FL and was thinking about picking up something on the cheap down there. Taxes are a lot lower down there too.
Your 10% return on investment...is that before appreciation of the house or after?
Lent...what do you think about buying rental property now?
Obviously you understand how it works, you want to buy it when everything looks the worst and prices have come down a lot...maybe they're not at the bottom yet, but if I had some extra cash, I'd probably be looking to fix up a rental right now.
What do you think?
One question I was thinking about is...if it's broken, what do I do? The wire is obviously not long enough to wrap around the screw (it definitely looks like it broke when I had to keep lifting the back panel to get the screws inside).