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>>> <font color=#dc143c>Under New Management<<< </font> Greg S. who started this board had not posted since 3/30/2004.
I asked to take over this board, I have done this because I’m new to reloading; in fact I’m so new I have not loaded a single cartridge yet, LOL! However, I will be very handloading soon, I have most of what I believe I need. Now I just need to get up off of my wallet and get my press and a set of dies. OBTW, I'll be getting the Lee 4-Turret Press. I’m hoping this board can help out as I lumber along through my new journey.
Seeing as how I am new to reloading, I have asked for the help of two people who know what they're doing. I got real lucky, as both have agreed. Please welcome my two new assistants new assistants; the well known Phil (Bullrider) and Trkyhntr.
TIA ~ Onebgg
Q - Case tumblers? What do use? What do you recommend? What do think is the best media, walnut shell, corn cob, mica???
I've been collecting brass for about six years, mostly .380, 9mm, .38, .357 MAG, .357 SIG, .40 S&W, .44 SPL, .44 Mag, .45 Auto, and .45 LC. I've also collected some 30-30 WIN, 30-06, and 308 WIN.
I have a lot of cleaning to do, HARR!!!!
I have one, but I use it for rifle brass, ONEBGG. I have never trimmed a pistol case. The hot loads I use in my magnum rifles tend to flow the brass and make the case neck longer after several shots. I measure them after each use. For pistol brass, I think you should be able to get by without one, at least until you get really picky about case length. Whatcha think, Bucky and Phil?
Q - How important is a case trimmer? What do use? And what would you recommend?
Hi Bucky!!! It's so good to see your name here once again!
Thanks TH! I used to be famous for not reading the destructions, LOL I really hate to admit it, but it's still not my strongest point, HARR!!!
Try STOS.....nuttin better!
Well, I bought some awhile back and found out it gummed up everything, so I stopped using it. After I posted this to you, I took a look at the can it comes in. The darn stuff is water soluble! Dammit, why don't I ever read directions. I just took the loading block that I thought was a ruined mess out to the kitchen and put it in the sink with some detergent. Gum all gone. Stupid me.
I used the RCBS lube pad and case lube for twenty or so years, and then this new fangled stuff came out I thougt it might be the end all and be all. It does work very well as a lube when resizing. I will try it again now. Mea dumbo!
Uh Oh... LOL!!! I though about that, truly, it'll probably be one of goofs. I'll let you know bud.
thank you for the nice experiences and what is good for the ammo stuff.
Let me know how you like the spray case lube, big guy. I have used a spray lube, but it seems to get gum all over my loading block. You will have to clean the dies carefully after each use.
Whether or not it is better, Mick, depends upon how careful and particular a reloader you are. If you work up a load for a particular rifle it will be extremely accurate. It is difficult to beat the accuracy of high end factory loads like Federal Premiums for example.
On the other side of the coin, it is always cheaper to reload once you have the investment in basic equipment out of the way. For example, the cheap .30-06 ammo at Wally World sells for about 8$ a box. I can reload 180 grain Sierra Game King boattails for about $4.50/box with new components. With the stuff I have on the shelf, a bit less. The problem with reloading is that you tend to shoot a whole lot more, thus you burn up the savings. Some shooters don't consider this a problem to worry about.
I am a particular shooter when it comes to my big game rifles. I won't keep a rifle in my gun safe unless it will shoot a three shot one inch group at 100 yards. My target rifles are better yet. To get there, it took a lot of shooting and trying out a bunch of different components, which is half the fun of reloading.
I will be going to Africa for my second trip the end of this month. The rifle I will take along is my .300 Weatherby. Bullets will be a new type I am trying out, the Kodiak bonded core 200 grain soft point. I have two boxes loaded. The gun now shoots one inch high at 100 yards. This should be fine medicine for whatever gets in my way, since I will not be hunting big ugly critters this time. One Cape buffalo in my lifetime will be quite enough, thank you. The trip this time will include waterbuck, nyala, zebra, and warthog.
This is what I have purchased in the way\of equipment and supplies thus far:
Brass Plus Cast Bullets 44 Caliber (429 Diameter)
225 Grain Lead Round Nose Flat Point Bevel Base
Box of 500
Frankford Arsenal Case Lube 6 oz Aerosol
Frankford Arsenal Case Neck Lubricator
Frankford Arsenal Plastic Ammo Box 50-Round Flip-Top
507 44 Special, 44 Remington Magnum Red x 6
Hornady 50-Round Universal Case Loading Block
(32 ACP to 458 Winchester Magnum)
Lee Auto Prime Hand Priming Tool
Lee Auto Prime Shellholder Package of 11
Lee Chamfer Tool
Lee Primer Pocket Cleaner
Top Brass - Brass 44 Remington Magnum
Box of 100
I know I still have plenty to buy, and I’m working on my next order for May, and then I hope to be buying that pres in June! It’ll be my birthday present to myself!
Remember, I’m new, so please offer any advice you may have. And Please, Don’t be shy in telling me if I’ve made a mistake! BTW, I’m sticking with Lee and Frankford Arsenal when I can, as I’ve read good things and many testimonials about both companies, and I have also been given some pretty good advice from quite a few people about their products as well.
While I order from a few different mail order companies, I ordered the above from MidwayUSA.com. Their S&H could be better, you would be hard pressed to beat their selection, price and most of all, their service, JMO!
Target Hunter,
…Gary
Here is a list of the books and manuals I have purchased thus far:
ABC’s Of Reloading 6th Edition
Ammo & Ballistics
Cartridges Of The World 11th Edition
Complete Reloading Guide
Handloader’s Manual Of Cartridges Conversions, The
Lyman: Reloading Handbook
NRA: Reloading
I also have over 80 firearms books and reference guides; some of these also have reloading info.
If you see an obvious miss on my list, please feel free to let me know.
Gary
we had this greek gent at work and he did it on the companies time.
we worked the graveyard so it was easy to do it for him.
he was a serious hunter. young gent too.
* <font color=#8a2be2>Welcome To Our Board Mick! Many here reload, I'm the only that hasn't, Yet That Is!
Mick,
It is not only cheaper to reload yourself, but you tailor the load to fit the gun.
And it's fun too, if you have the time to do it.
Have fun,
Phil
i never did the reloading the empty shell. does anyone do it here?
is it cheaper or bettter to buy the ammo from the gun shop?
We don't politics here, But Hell Yes!!!
hi gary , i came over to say hello to all. i'll place it on favorites.
you ladies and gents really take care of the arm stuff.
does anyone like what the minutemen are doing at the borders for us?
flash is the leader of the pack.
Thanks TH, I real happy to have you here. I've decided the first cartridge I'll be buying dies for and reloading will be the .44 Remington Magnum.
Folks, I am a relative rookie compared to some. Have only been reloading for about twenty years or so. I started with an RCBS Partner outfit and still have the press. I also have a Lee press that I use mostly for decapping. I reload for most of my rifles and for .38/357 and .44 rem mag pistol. As to questions, ask away. I'm sure we can at least point you in the right direction.
No thanks needed but pal, but they are appreciated. It is I who Thanks You! I wanted someone with Shot Shell reloading knowledge here. By time I'm done, I hope to be loading 80-90% of what I shoot, and that includes handgun, rifle and shot shell!
* <font color=#ff4500>New >>></font> Please check out our new Reloading Links Page
Gary,
I am honored that you asked me to assist you with the board and I do have a lot of experience in reloading.
Most of my experience is with shotshells but I do have some experience with pistol and rifle cartridges also.
I would also like to welcome Trkyhntr as an assistant.
I'm pretty sure he has a lot more experience with reloading pistol and rifle cartridges than I do.
Between us we should be able to answer any question you might have.
I'm still leaning towards getting a Dillon press when the opportunity presents itself. I might even start watching Ebay again for a good deal on one.
Anyway, thanks again for the opportunity to help.
Your friend,
Phil
* <font color=#8a2be2>Welcome To The RELOAD board Carlos, And Good Morning Bud!!!
Step By Step Reloading:
Step By Step Rifle/Pistol Reloading Manual
1. Clean and Check
Using a soft cloth, wipe each case clean to prevent dirt from scratching the case and resizing the die. Inspect the case for anything that would keep it from being safely reloaded, such as split case mouths, case head separations, excessive bulges and other case defects. Any case found defective should be thrown away.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2. Lubricate the Cases
Because of the force involved, you'll need to lubricate the cases before they go into a sizer die. Spread some lube on the pad and lubricate the body of the case. If you're using a carbide sizer die for reloading straight-wall pistol cases, you can eliminate this step. The carbide ring in the sizer die is so smooth that cases simply can't get stuck in the die.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
3. Lubricate the Case
Clean dirt and powder residue from inside case necks and simultaneously add a light coating of case lube with a case neck brush. This will reduce the resizing effort and prevent excess working of the brass. Roll the brush across the lube pad after every three or four cases for just the right amount.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
4. Install the Shell Holder
Snap a shell holder into the press ram with a slight twisting motion. The shell holder will securely grip the head of the cartridge case. Check out our latest catalog or see your local dealer for help in selecting the correct shell holder.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
5. Install the Sizer Die
Thread the sizer die into the press until the die touches the shell holder when the ram is at the top of the press stroke. Raise the press handle and turn the die down another one-eigth to one-quarter of a turn and set the large lock ring. If you're using a carbide sizer die, leave a 1/16" gap between the bottom of the die and the shell holder.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
6. Insert the Case
With the press handle in the uppermost position slide the case into the shell holder.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
7. Resize the Case
Gently but firmly lower the press handle all the way to the bottom and run the case all the way into the sizer die. This will resize the case to the proper dimension and push the fired primer out of the case. Next, raise the press handle. This will lower the case and expand the case mouth (on bottle-neck cartridges), correctly setting the case neck diameter to hold the bullet tightly.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
8. Check the Case Length and Trim if Necessary
After several firings, cases sometimes stretch and become longer than the specified maximum length. These cases must be trimmed to allow for proper chambering and for safety reasons. The trimmer works like a small lathe and can be used to trim most cases up through 45 caliber.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
9. Chamfer and Deburr
Cases that have been trimmed need to also be chamfered and deburred. This will remove any burrs left on the case after trimming and will allow a new bullet to be easily seated into the case. Insert the pointed end of the Deburring Tool into the case to remove burrs and chamfer the case mouth. Fit the other end over the case mouth to remove exterior burrs.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
10. Expand the Case Mouth
Because of their design, straight-wall cases need to be expanded in a separate expander die. Install the expander die in the press, place a sized case in the shell holder and run it into the die. The expander should be adjusted so the case mouth is belled outward just enough to accept the new bullet.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
11. Prime the Case
Use a primer tray for fast, easy primer handling. To use, first scatter primers onto the grooved surface of the tray. Then, shake the tray horizontally until all the primers are positioned anvil side up.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
12. Prime the Case
Place a fresh primer, anvil side up, into the cup of the primer arm and insert a case into the shell holder.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
13. Prime the Case
Lower the handle and push the primer arm all the way into the slot in the shell holder ram.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
14. Prime the Case
Now, gently and slowly raise the press handle. As the case is drawn out of the die it will be lowered onto the fresh primer which will be seated into the primer pocket. Slightly lower the press handle to release the primer arm; then push the handle all the way up. Inspect the primer to make sure it is properly seated. In order to gain optimum primer sensitivity, the primer must be seated firmly to the bottom of the primer pocket.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
15. Prime the Case
For a faster way to prime cases, use an automatic primer feed. Primers drop one at a time into the primer arm on the press.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
16. Powder Charging
Consult a data manual to learn what kind of powder, and exactly how much is recommended to reload your cartridge. Then weigh the recommended charge on your scale.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
17. Powder Charging
After accurately weighing the powder charge, put it into the case using a powder funnel.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
18. Powder Charging
You can dispense a precise charge, without weighing every charge on a scale. Fill the measure with powder and throw several charges to establish flow and settle the powder in the hopper. Return this powder to the hopper. Use your reloading scale to adjust the powder measure. Weigh every charge until several consecutively thrown charges show the desired weight. Re-check the weight about every ten cases.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
19. Bullet Seating
Thread the seater die a few turns into the press. Put a case in the shell holder and lower the press handle, running the ram with the case to the top of the press stroke. Turn the die body down until it stops. The crimp shoulder in the die is now pressing against the top of the case mouth. Back the die out one turn, raising the crimp shoulder above the case mouth. Secure the die in position with the die lock ring.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
20. Bullet Seating
Next, unscrew the seater plug enough to keep the bullet from being seated too deeply.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
21. Bullet Seating
With the handle in the uppermost position insert a properly primed and charged case into the shell holder.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
22. Bullet Seating
Take a bullet and hold it over the case mouth with one hand while you lower the press handle with the other, easing the case and the bullet up into the die. After raising the handle, note the seating depth of the loaded round. If the bullet needs to be seated deeper into the case, turn the seater plug down.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
23. Bullet Seating
Run the loaded round back up into the die, raise the press handle and check the seating depth again. A few more adjustments may be needed for the proper bullet seating depth; then, you simply tighten the small seater plug lock ring.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
24. That's it!
Your first reloaded cartridge is ready to be fired. Of course, we've described only one case going through all the reloading steps. When actually reloading, you'd take a batch of cases through each operation before moving on to the next step.
From: ReloadingCentral.com
good morning Garry
Step By Step Rifle/Pistol Reloading Manual
1. Clean and Check
Using a soft cloth, wipe each case clean to prevent dirt from scratching the case and resizing the die. Inspect the case for anything that would keep it from being safely reloaded, such as split case mouths, case head separations, excessive bulges and other case defects. Any case found defective should be thrown away.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2. Lubricate the Cases
Because of the force involved, you'll need to lubricate the cases before they go into a sizer die. Spread some lube on the pad and lubricate the body of the case. If you're using a carbide sizer die for reloading straight-wall pistol cases, you can eliminate this step. The carbide ring in the sizer die is so smooth that cases simply can't get stuck in the die.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
3. Lubricate the Case
Clean dirt and powder residue from inside case necks and simultaneously add a light coating of case lube with a case neck brush. This will reduce the resizing effort and prevent excess working of the brass. Roll the brush across the lube pad after every three or four cases for just the right amount.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
4. Install the Shell Holder
Snap a shell holder into the press ram with a slight twisting motion. The shell holder will securely grip the head of the cartridge case. Check out our latest catalog or see your local dealer for help in selecting the correct shell holder.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
5. Install the Sizer Die
Thread the sizer die into the press until the die touches the shell holder when the ram is at the top of the press stroke. Raise the press handle and turn the die down another one-eigth to one-quarter of a turn and set the large lock ring. If you're using a carbide sizer die, leave a 1/16" gap between the bottom of the die and the shell holder.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
6. Insert the Case
With the press handle in the uppermost position slide the case into the shell holder.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
7. Resize the Case
Gently but firmly lower the press handle all the way to the bottom and run the case all the way into the sizer die. This will resize the case to the proper dimension and push the fired primer out of the case. Next, raise the press handle. This will lower the case and expand the case mouth (on bottle-neck cartridges), correctly setting the case neck diameter to hold the bullet tightly.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
8. Check the Case Length and Trim if Necessary
After several firings, cases sometimes stretch and become longer than the specified maximum length. These cases must be trimmed to allow for proper chambering and for safety reasons. The trimmer works like a small lathe and can be used to trim most cases up through 45 caliber.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
9. Chamfer and Deburr
Cases that have been trimmed need to also be chamfered and deburred. This will remove any burrs left on the case after trimming and will allow a new bullet to be easily seated into the case. Insert the pointed end of the Deburring Tool into the case to remove burrs and chamfer the case mouth. Fit the other end over the case mouth to remove exterior burrs.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
10. Expand the Case Mouth
Because of their design, straight-wall cases need to be expanded in a separate expander die. Install the expander die in the press, place a sized case in the shell holder and run it into the die. The expander should be adjusted so the case mouth is belled outward just enough to accept the new bullet.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
11. Prime the Case
Use a primer tray for fast, easy primer handling. To use, first scatter primers onto the grooved surface of the tray. Then, shake the tray horizontally until all the primers are positioned anvil side up.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
12. Prime the Case
Place a fresh primer, anvil side up, into the cup of the primer arm and insert a case into the shell holder.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
13. Prime the Case
Lower the handle and push the primer arm all the way into the slot in the shell holder ram.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
14. Prime the Case
Now, gently and slowly raise the press handle. As the case is drawn out of the die it will be lowered onto the fresh primer which will be seated into the primer pocket. Slightly lower the press handle to release the primer arm; then push the handle all the way up. Inspect the primer to make sure it is properly seated. In order to gain optimum primer sensitivity, the primer must be seated firmly to the bottom of the primer pocket.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
15. Prime the Case
For a faster way to prime cases, use an automatic primer feed. Primers drop one at a time into the primer arm on the press.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
16. Powder Charging
Consult a data manual to learn what kind of powder, and exactly how much is recommended to reload your cartridge. Then weigh the recommended charge on your scale.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
17. Powder Charging
After accurately weighing the powder charge, put it into the case using a powder funnel.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
18. Powder Charging
You can dispense a precise charge, without weighing every charge on a scale. Fill the measure with powder and throw several charges to establish flow and settle the powder in the hopper. Return this powder to the hopper. Use your reloading scale to adjust the powder measure. Weigh every charge until several consecutively thrown charges show the desired weight. Re-check the weight about every ten cases.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
19. Bullet Seating
Thread the seater die a few turns into the press. Put a case in the shell holder and lower the press handle, running the ram with the case to the top of the press stroke. Turn the die body down until it stops. The crimp shoulder in the die is now pressing against the top of the case mouth. Back the die out one turn, raising the crimp shoulder above the case mouth. Secure the die in position with the die lock ring.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
20. Bullet Seating
Next, unscrew the seater plug enough to keep the bullet from being seated too deeply.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
21. Bullet Seating
With the handle in the uppermost position insert a properly primed and charged case into the shell holder.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
22. Bullet Seating
Take a bullet and hold it over the case mouth with one hand while you lower the press handle with the other, easing the case and the bullet up into the die. After raising the handle, note the seating depth of the loaded round. If the bullet needs to be seated deeper into the case, turn the seater plug down.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
23. Bullet Seating
Run the loaded round back up into the die, raise the press handle and check the seating depth again. A few more adjustments may be needed for the proper bullet seating depth; then, you simply tighten the small seater plug lock ring.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
24. That's it!
Your first reloaded cartridge is ready to be fired. Of course, we've described only one case going through all the reloading steps. When actually reloading, you'd take a batch of cases through each operation before moving on to the next step.
Step By Step Rifle/Pistol Reloading Manual
1. Clean and Check
Using a soft cloth, wipe each case clean to prevent dirt from scratching the case and resizing the die. Inspect the case for anything that would keep it from being safely reloaded, such as split case mouths, case head separations, excessive bulges and other case defects. Any case found defective should be thrown away.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2. Lubricate the Cases
Because of the force involved, you'll need to lubricate the cases before they go into a sizer die. Spread some lube on the pad and lubricate the body of the case. If you're using a carbide sizer die for reloading straight-wall pistol cases, you can eliminate this step. The carbide ring in the sizer die is so smooth that cases simply can't get stuck in the die.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
3. Lubricate the Case
Clean dirt and powder residue from inside case necks and simultaneously add a light coating of case lube with a case neck brush. This will reduce the resizing effort and prevent excess working of the brass. Roll the brush across the lube pad after every three or four cases for just the right amount.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
4. Install the Shell Holder
Snap a shell holder into the press ram with a slight twisting motion. The shell holder will securely grip the head of the cartridge case. Check out our latest catalog or see your local dealer for help in selecting the correct shell holder.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
5. Install the Sizer Die
Thread the sizer die into the press until the die touches the shell holder when the ram is at the top of the press stroke. Raise the press handle and turn the die down another one-eigth to one-quarter of a turn and set the large lock ring. If you're using a carbide sizer die, leave a 1/16" gap between the bottom of the die and the shell holder.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
6. Insert the Case
With the press handle in the uppermost position slide the case into the shell holder.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
7. Resize the Case
Gently but firmly lower the press handle all the way to the bottom and run the case all the way into the sizer die. This will resize the case to the proper dimension and push the fired primer out of the case. Next, raise the press handle. This will lower the case and expand the case mouth (on bottle-neck cartridges), correctly setting the case neck diameter to hold the bullet tightly.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
8. Check the Case Length and Trim if Necessary
After several firings, cases sometimes stretch and become longer than the specified maximum length. These cases must be trimmed to allow for proper chambering and for safety reasons. The trimmer works like a small lathe and can be used to trim most cases up through 45 caliber.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
9. Chamfer and Deburr
Cases that have been trimmed need to also be chamfered and deburred. This will remove any burrs left on the case after trimming and will allow a new bullet to be easily seated into the case. Insert the pointed end of the Deburring Tool into the case to remove burrs and chamfer the case mouth. Fit the other end over the case mouth to remove exterior burrs.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
10. Expand the Case Mouth
Because of their design, straight-wall cases need to be expanded in a separate expander die. Install the expander die in the press, place a sized case in the shell holder and run it into the die. The expander should be adjusted so the case mouth is belled outward just enough to accept the new bullet.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
11. Prime the Case
Use a primer tray for fast, easy primer handling. To use, first scatter primers onto the grooved surface of the tray. Then, shake the tray horizontally until all the primers are positioned anvil side up.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
12. Prime the Case
Place a fresh primer, anvil side up, into the cup of the primer arm and insert a case into the shell holder.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
13. Prime the Case
Lower the handle and push the primer arm all the way into the slot in the shell holder ram.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
14. Prime the Case
Now, gently and slowly raise the press handle. As the case is drawn out of the die it will be lowered onto the fresh primer which will be seated into the primer pocket. Slightly lower the press handle to release the primer arm; then push the handle all the way up. Inspect the primer to make sure it is properly seated. In order to gain optimum primer sensitivity, the primer must be seated firmly to the bottom of the primer pocket.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
15. Prime the Case
For a faster way to prime cases, use an automatic primer feed. Primers drop one at a time into the primer arm on the press.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
16. Powder Charging
Consult a data manual to learn what kind of powder, and exactly how much is recommended to reload your cartridge. Then weigh the recommended charge on your scale.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
17. Powder Charging
After accurately weighing the powder charge, put it into the case using a powder funnel.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
18. Powder Charging
You can dispense a precise charge, without weighing every charge on a scale. Fill the measure with powder and throw several charges to establish flow and settle the powder in the hopper. Return this powder to the hopper. Use your reloading scale to adjust the powder measure. Weigh every charge until several consecutively thrown charges show the desired weight. Re-check the weight about every ten cases.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
19. Bullet Seating
Thread the seater die a few turns into the press. Put a case in the shell holder and lower the press handle, running the ram with the case to the top of the press stroke. Turn the die body down until it stops. The crimp shoulder in the die is now pressing against the top of the case mouth. Back the die out one turn, raising the crimp shoulder above the case mouth. Secure the die in position with the die lock ring.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
20. Bullet Seating
Next, unscrew the seater plug enough to keep the bullet from being seated too deeply.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
21. Bullet Seating
With the handle in the uppermost position insert a properly primed and charged case into the shell holder.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
22. Bullet Seating
Take a bullet and hold it over the case mouth with one hand while you lower the press handle with the other, easing the case and the bullet up into the die. After raising the handle, note the seating depth of the loaded round. If the bullet needs to be seated deeper into the case, turn the seater plug down.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
23. Bullet Seating
Run the loaded round back up into the die, raise the press handle and check the seating depth again. A few more adjustments may be needed for the proper bullet seating depth; then, you simply tighten the small seater plug lock ring.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
24. That's it!
Your first reloaded cartridge is ready to be fired. Of course, we've described only one case going through all the reloading steps. When actually reloading, you'd take a batch of cases through each operation before moving on to the next step.
Thanks TH, I've linked to this post in the i-box.
Nice article, big guy. Words to live by. The converse is also true. The only rule among those that I don't abide by is the one about safety glasses. I wear glasses with safety glass instead.
The Basic Rules for Reloading Safely
Introduction
Most reloaders handload because it is interesting, less expensive than shooting factory loads and because they can often develop more accurate loads for specific guns. The NRMA wants you to enjoy this hobby safely and this leaflet provides some basic rules observed by all top-notch reloaders. Obviously, it is not a reloading manual. You are urged to read all available books on reloading. Go to demonstrations, talk to experienced handloaders. Make yourself as knowledgeable as you can.
Basic Reloading Precautions
1. Modern ammunition uses smokeless powder as the energy source. Smokeless powder is much more powerful than black powder or Pyrodex®. Never substitute smokeless powder for black powder or Pyrodex® and never mix it with either.
2. Follow loading recommendations exactly. Don't substitute components for those listed. Start loading with the minimum powder charge in the loads shown.
3. Never exceed manufacturers' reloading data. Excess pressures caused by excessive loads could severely damage a firearm and cause serious injury or death.
4. Understand what you are doing and why it must be done in a specific way.
5. Stay alert when reloading. Don't reload when distracted, disturbed or tired.
6. Set up a loading procedure and follow it. Don't vary your sequence of operations.
7. Set up your reloading bench where powder and primers will not be exposed to heat, sparks or flame.
8. DO NOT smoke while reloading.
9. ALWAYS wear safety glasses while reloading.
10. Keep everything out of the reach of small children.
11. Keep your reloading bench clean and uncluttered. Label components and reloads for easy identification.
12. Do not eat while handling lead.
13. NEVER try to dislodge a loaded cartridge that has become stuck in the chamber by impacting it with a cleaning rod. Have a competent gunsmith remove the round.
Smokeless Powder
All smokeless powders obviously have to burn very fast, but handgun and shotgun powders must burn faster than rifle powders. You will readily note the differences in physical size and shape of various powders, but you cannot see differences in chemical composition that help to control the rate of burning. Burn rate is also affected by pressure. "Hot primers," seating the bullet too deep, overcrimping the case on the bullet, tight gun chambers, oversize bullets, use of heavy shot loads and anything that increases friction or confinement of the powder will increase the pressure. Obviously this hobby requires attention to detail, patience and meticulousness to insure the safety and quality of loads produced.
Powder Warnings
1. NEVER mix powders of different kinds.
2. Use the powder ONLY as recommended in manufacturer reloading manuals.
3. Store powder in cool, dry place.
4. If you throw or measure powder charges by volume, check-weigh the charges every time you begin loading, occasionally during loading and when you finish.
5. Pour out only enough powder for the immediate work.
6. NEVER substitute smokeless powder for black powder or Pyrodex®.
7. Don't carry powder in your clothing. Wash your hands thoroughly after handling it.
8. Store powders only in original package. Don't repackage.
9. Keep powder containers tightly closed when not in use.
10. Specific powders are designed for specific uses. Don't use them for other purposes.
11. Smokeless powder is EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE. To dispose of deteriorated powders, follow recommendations in The Properties and Storage of Smokeless Powder SAAMI Reprint #376-2500, which is published in some reloading guides or available from NRMA.
12. Empty the powder measure back into the original powder container when through with a reloading session. DO NOT MIX POWDERS.
13. Clean up spilled powder with brush and dust pan; do not use a vacuum cleaner because fire or explosion may result.
Primers
Priming materials differ in brisance (initial explosive force) and in the amount of hot gas produced. Don't mix primers of different makes.
1. Don't decap live primers. Fire them in the appropriate gun then decap.
2. Don't ream out or enlarge the flash hole in primer pockets. This can increase chamber pressure.
3. Over-ignition creates higher gun pressures. The best results are obtained by using the mildest primer consistent with good ignition.
4. Don't use primers you can't identify. Ask your local police or fire department to dispose of unidentifiable or nonserviceable primers.
5. Keep primers in the original packaging until used. Return unused primers to the same package. Don't dump together and store in bulk. There is a risk of mass detonation if one is ignited.
6. If resistance to seating or feeding of primers is felt, STOP and investigate. DO NOT FORCE PRIMERS.
7. Store primers in a cool, dry place. High temperature, such as in a summer attic, causes them to deteriorate.
8. Don't handle primers with oily or greasy hands. Oil contamination can affect ignitability.
9. There have been instances of "primer dusting" in the tubes of loading tools because of vibration. Clean the machines after each use.
10. Refer to SAAMI reprint SPORTING AMMUNITION PRIMERS: Properties, Handling & Storage for Handloading. If you don't have one, write NRMA.
Handling Lead
Lead, a substance known to cause birth defects, reproductive harm and other serious physical injury, must be handled with extreme care. Handle lead bullets or lead shot only in a well ventilated area and ALWAYS wash hands after handling lead and before eating. Discharging firearms in poorly ventilated areas, cleaning firearms, or handling ammunition also may result in exposure to lead. Have adequate ventilation at all times.
Handloading Rifle & Pistol Cartridges
1. Examine cases before loading. Discard any that are not in good condition.
2. Put labels on boxes of loaded cartridges. Identify caliber, primer, powder and charge, bullet and weight, and date of reloading.
3. In handgun cartridges, the seating depth of the bullet is extremely important. Handgun powders must burn very quickly because of the short barrel. They are sensitive to small changes in crimp, bullet hardness, bullet diameter, primer brisance and especially to bullet seating depth.
4. Check the overall length of the cartridge to be sure the bullet is seated properly.*
5. If you cast your own bullets, remember their hardness, diameter and lubrication affect the ballistics.
6. Plastic cases designed for practice loads (where the bullet is propelled by primer gas only) can't be used for full powder loads.
7. Consult manufacturer regarding disposal of unserviceable ammunition. Ask your local police or fire department to dispose of small quantities.
* Accumulation of lead or grease in the bullet seating tool may force the bullet in too far. If the bullet isn't seated deeply enough, it may engage the lands of the barrel when loaded. This will increase the chamber pressure.
Reloading Shotgun Shells
1. Select cases that are in good condition. Be sure base wad is intact and the shells are of the same brand and type. Discard any with split mouths.
2. Check the powder bushing to be sure it is correct for the powder weight recommended. Check-weigh thrown powder charges.
3. Check shot bushing for shot charge weight.
4. Shotshell wads differ in their sealing ability. Use the load combination specified in the reloading guide.
5. FOR YOUR SAFETY, PLEASE NOTE: YOU CANNOT substitute STEEL, BUFFERED LEAD SHOT or BISMUTH SHOT in loads recommended for LEAD SHOT ONLY. To load steel or Bismuth shot or add buffer materials to lead shot, you MUST use different components, and follow EXACTLY the instructions provided by recognized authorities.
Prevent Missing & Double Charges
1. It is easy to double charge if you are momentarily distracted. Use a depth gauge to check powder height in a shell. A piece of doweling rod can be used as a depth gauge.
2. Observe the powder level of cases placed in the loading block. This is a way to discover any cases with missing or double powder charges.
3. Take care to operate progressive loaders as the manufacturer recommends. Don't back up the turret or jiggle the handle. Don't use a shell to catch the residue when cleaning out the powder train.
From The NRMA Website.
Reloading Steps
1. Clean and Lubricate the cases
The first thing you always need to do is clean and lubricate the empty shell before re-sizing the case (and decapping the old primer). While Tungsten Carbide pistol dies don't require lubricating, it's still a good idea. Just a light amount of lube on the pad goes a long way. You can place several cases on the pad and roll them together to lube several at once. You only need a LIGHT film on the cases.
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NOTE: OLD STYLE PISTOL DIES ARE DIFFERENT FROM THE NEW STYLE. OLD STYLE RESIZES ONLY ON FIRST STEP, THEN 2ND DECAPS, BELLS MOUTH AND REPRIMES AND FINALLY THE 3RD DIE SEATS THE BULLET AND CRIMPS.
NEW STYLE 1. RESIZES, DECAPS AND REPRIMES, THEN 2. BELLS MOUTH AND FINALLY 3. SEATS BULLET AND CRIMPS. SOME 4 DIE SETS HAVE THE 4TH DIE DO THE CRIMPING, PARTICULARLY A HEAVY ROLL CRIMP.
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2. Resize (and decap) cases.
The next step is always re-sizing the cases. Some die sets are only 2 dies and they also de-cap (punch out old primer) at the same time. This 2 die set is most common with rifle sets. The reason for a 3 die set is the first die re-sizes, the second de-caps and puts a slight open bell on the case mouth to allow easy bullet seating later.
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3. Decap and re-prime cases.
With the 3 die sets, the next die knocks out the old primer and may put a slight bell on the mouth of the case. This is an adjustment you must carefully make. The pin will always knock out the primer at any setting, but a little more or less of the seating will determine whether or not the case mouth is belled out or not at all. Before removing the case, re-seat a new primer. Most presses have provisions for a tube that automatically feeds a new primer into the lever that seats it in the case. Be careful and seat it slowly to avoid the primer going off. A primer exploding in front of your face could put an eye out. Wear safety glasses during this step.
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4. Charge the cases with powder.
After you have primed all the cases, it's time to put the measured charge in each one. Using a powder measure (see accessories you must have page) that has been accurately calibrated for the load you plan to use, carefully fill each case. A tap on the powder measure will insure all the powder drops into the case. When finished with a block of cases, VISUALLY INSPECT EACH ONE to make sure no cases are empty or got a double filling. Either situation could result in a terrible accident or fatality.
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5. Seat the bullet (and crimp).
Finally it's time to seat the bullets. The last die is always a seating (and crimping) die. On cases like the 30-06 with solid, jacketed bullets, there may be no crimp ring or need to crimp. So even if your die will crimp, you set it out far enough NOT to crimp, and adjust the bullet seating center pin to put the bullet at the depth you want. Start with the bullet out too far, and gradually increase the depth control to get the seating you want, then set the lock ring on the die, to keep it at that depth. For bullets that you DO want to crimp, especially lead bullets or magnum one with a crimp ring, you first seat a bullet at the depth you want (by little increments) then move the seating pin out of the way. Then adjust the depth of the die in the press, small increments until the round goes up just far enough to put the proper crimp on the case to hold the bullet securely. Lock down the die...and then re-adjust the bullet seating pin to be firm on top of the bullet. Now, the bullets will be seated just deep enough as the cartridge reaches the top of the die and is crimped. You are finished.
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Discussion: If you have never reloaded ammo before, you should watch someone else go through the steps outlined above. If you are familiar with the process, then these steps are just a clear way to proceed in your reloading process.
With progressive presses, all steps are done as the case rotates around to each successive die. In the Dillon 550-B, the first die, resizes, decaps and reprimes the case. Where the second die would be used, you have the automatic powder measure with its built in case bell tool at the same time it dumps powder into the case. The third step seats the bullet and crimps (with 3 die sets) and with 4 die sets, the last die does the crimping. Then the loaded round is ejected into a box. This method was FIVE times faster for me to load 250 rounds of .38 special on the first try.
http://www.reloadammo.com/relsteps.htm
This is just some reading I'm going over as I get ready to start hand loading. Looks like I'll be going with a Lee set up as TH recommended.
۞<font color=red> Christmas FUN Party:
YOU'RE INVITED TO
WHERE: THE FUN BOARD DAY: SATURDAY THE 18th. TIME: 8:PM EST
It's All Christmas: Music, Images, Gifs and other FUN!!!
>>> TALKING ABOUT FUN <<<
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COME ONE COME ALL, IT'S GOING TO BE A BALL!!!
>>> <font color=darkorange>An Invitation; We are having…
Where: Galaxy Radio
When: Saturday
Time: 8:30 PM EST
It’s A 50’s, 60’s & 70’s Sock Hop Folks!!! The DJ’s will be Wantoberich, Skeballarry, Original dpb5!, HaremSheik, & Myself. It should be a real blast! We're hoping you can attend. OBTW, You may not recognize me at the party because I’ll be wearing a disguise, LOL!!!
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Changes In Federal Law As Of September 13, 2004
Relating To Semiautomatic Assault Weapons (SAWs)
And
Large Capasity Ammunnition Feeding Devices (LCAFDs)
GENERAL
As of September 13, 2004, the provisions of Public Law 103-322, the Violent Crime Control and Law Enforcement Act of 1994, covering semiautomatic assault weapons and large capacity ammunition feeding devices are no longer in effect. The regulations implementing these provisions also are no longer in effect.
Specifically, there is no longer a Federal prohibition on the manufacture, transfer, and possession of semiautomatic assault weapons and large capacity ammunition feeding devices.
There are no longer any marking requirements for semiautomatic assault weapons and large capacity ammunition feeding devices. Existing markings on firearms and magazines relating to law enforcement or government use may be disregarded.
There is no longer any Federal requirement for Federal firearms licensees to obtain certain documentation before transferring semiautomatic assault weapons and large capacity ammunition feeding devices to government agencies or law enforcement officers. However, any records obtained prior to September 13, 1994, pertaining to the sale or transfer of semiautomatic assault weapons must still be retained for a period of 5 years. See 27 CFR § 478.129(f). Moreover, records of importation and manufacture must be maintained permanently and licensees must maintain all other acquisition and disposition records for 20 years.
Licensees who provided letters of future intent to sell semiautomatic assault weapons and large capacity ammunition feeding devices to law enforcement agencies and other qualified customers are no longer obligated to comply with such letters.
Anyone who illegally possessed, manufactured, or transferred semiautomatic assault weapons or large capacity ammunition feeding devices before the bans sunset still have violated the law since their possession, manufacture, or transfer was illegal at the time.
IMPORTATION
The prohibition on the importation of non-sporting firearms under 18 U.S.C. section 922(l) and 925(d)(3) still applies.
Importation of large capacity ammunition feeding devices still is covered under the Arms Export Control Act. Therefore an approved permit still is required to import large capacity magazines.
Temporary importation of semiautomatic assault weapons and large capacity magazines is now lawful under the provisions of 27 CFR § 478.115(d) because temporary importations are not subject to the sporting purpose test.
Any importer who has a valid approved Form 6 import permit with a restriction related to the assault weapon ban should comply with the restriction because the weapons most likely are non-sporting.
Any importer who has a valid approved Form 6 import permit with a restriction related to large capacity ammunition feeding devices may disregard the restriction. Importers may apply for a new permit if they prefer.
ASSEMBLY OF NON-SPORTING SHOTGUNS AND SEMIAUTOMATIC RIFLES FROM IMPORTED PARTS
The prohibition on assembly of non-sporting shotguns and semiautomatic rifles from imported parts as provided under 18 U.S.C. § 922(r) and 27 CFR § 478.39 still applies.
LAW ENFORCEMENT OFFICERS AND POLICE DEPARTMENTS
Law enforcement officers and police departments who obtained semiautomatic assault weapons are no longer required to use such firearms only for official use.
Law enforcement officers and police departments may now sell or transfer semiautomatic assault weapons to persons who are not prohibited from receiving firearms.
Law enforcement officers and police departments may now sell or transfer large capacity ammunition feeding devices to anybody.
Signed statements that semiautomatic assault weapons and large capacity ammunition feeding devices will be used for official use are no longer required to be provided to Federal firearms licensees.
RETIRED LAW ENFORCEMENT OFFICERS
Federal law does not prohibit retiring law enforcement officers from keeping semiautomatic assault weapons or large capacity ammunition feeding devices.
Former law enforcement officers who received semiautomatic assault weapons on retirement may now transfer those firearms to persons who are not prohibited from receiving firearms. Transfer of large capacity ammunition feeding devices is no longer restricted.
NATIONAL FIREARMS ACT
All provisions of the National Firearms Act relating to registration and transfer of machineguns, short barreled rifles, weapons made from rifles, short barreled shotguns, weapons made from shotguns, any other weapons as defined in Title 26 U.S.C. section 5845(e), silencers, and destructive devices still apply.
Registered silencers can now be attached to semiautomatic rifles and pistols without creating a prohibited semiautomatic assault weapon.
USAS-12 and Striker12/Streetsweeper shotguns are still classified as destructive devices under ATF Rulings 94-1 and 94-2 and must be possessed and transferred in accordance with the NFA.
EFFECT ON STATE LAW
Expiration of the Federal law will not change any provisions of State law or local ordinances. Questions concerning State assault weapons restrictions should be referred to State and local authorities.
Verify information: http://www.atf.gov/firearms/saw-factsheet.htm and http://www.atf.gov/
OT: <font color=magenta>Notice:</font> Eric Clapton is going to be the featured artist of this coming Sunday's Blues Show on the FUN board, It'll be all Eric Clapton, all afternoon!
Alert From Hodgdon! 45 Colt High Pressure Data Warning: On page 132 of the 2004 Hodgdon Annual Manual are two lines of data using Longshot Powder in the standard 45 Colt section that were intended for use in the 45 Colt (Ruger, Freedom Arms & T/C only) section. These two lines of data appear in the 250gr. HDY XTP and 300gr. SIE JFP sections. DO NOT USE these loads in a standard Colt or any reproduction models, since excessive pressure may cause firearm damage. Failure to heed this warning could result in severe personal injury (Including Death) or gun damage to the user or bystander.
http://www.hodgdon.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=HP&Product_Code=am&C....
Quaility Weapons Traning
By Michael Kay
The implication of carrying a handgun in the public service is simply that the Police Officer will use the gun to enforce the law, if and when forced to do so.
1. Training must be regularly scheduled. Once a Police Officer graduates from the academy and starts regular duties, weapons training is almost nonexistent or haphazard at best. It is important that shooting exercises be scheduled at regular intervals AT LEAST FOUR [4] TIMES A YEAR and that schedule be adhered to. A flexible schedule is no schedule, everything, it seems becomes more important than weapons training. The challenge if for the training coordinator to battle those that "steal" training time and he must have backing to do so. Once the word gets out that weapons training will go ahead as planned the grumbling will subside.
2. The training must be compulsory. This is a real problem. Compulsory training means for every officer. The Commissioner himself would not have to look far to find a excuse not to go to the range. However leaders should lead. If the Commissioner consistently makes exception of himself, his executive Officers and sergeants will start imitating him. When that happens, the whole program will collapse, because anyone who really doesn't want to shoot (and these are usually the ones who most need the training) knows that with a little imagination he/she can usually get out of it. Their is no substitute for having the Commissioner on the range, because if he's their, you can bet all the Deputies, Superintendents, Inspectors and Sergeants will be their too. Executive Officers strap on a gun, go down to the range and actually shoot that days training exercise right along aside your people and accept the score you actually earned. Compulsory weapons training means just that and it starts at the top.
3. The training must be job related. Is our weapons training really relevant? In all areas of law enforcement, the officer must be trained to perform the tasks he will be expected to do on the job. However in the education business their is a bad habit of training people in a sterile environment, and nowhere will you find a more sterile environment than on the range. We know, for instance, that the majority of shooting incidents involving Police Officers take place during hours of darkness or in reduced light. Wouldn't it make more sense, then, to conduct most of the weapons training in reduced light? Why don't we? If we claim to be preparing the Officer for what he/she will actually encounter on the job, the answer is, because we're lazy and afraid to counter tradition.
We all know how important the skillful use of cover is to the survival of an Officer in an shooting incident. Do we routinely require the Officer to use cover during live firing exercises? We are limited only by our sense of commitment and our imagination.
4. The training must be performance oriented. "Train the way you fight, because you fight the way you've been trained". So goes an old military adage, and it's true. Everything that is done routinely on the range will be done on the street. Every habit learned on the range will be applied automatically in the street, for better or worse. Therefore, we should train our Officers to survive. This means Officers don't go around with a empty gun, even on the range. Officers should keep their weapon loaded at all times. No longer should the have to drop their empty brass in buckets at the shooting stations along the course. They should be required to use their duty gear. If they carry speed loaders, they use them, if they carry spares in strips, they use them, ect. They don't reload out of a pocket unless that's where they actually keep their spare ammunition. They should perform on the range as they would in an actual gunfight. To the greatest extent possible they should practice with service ammunition also.
That goes for tactics, too. It's not enough to lecture about individual tactics, like the use of cover. Officers learn tactics like they learn anything else, by doing. The bottom line is anything we can possibly expect them to face in the street, we better train them to do on the range. The training is the test.
5. The training must be realistic. A shooting incident is about as stressful a situation as can be imagined, so what ever the Officer is trained to do, he/she must be able to apply easily under stress. Fine coordination and decision making abilities are severely reduced while under stress. This is why all those slick martial arts tricks that look so easy on the mat become very difficult and don't usually work when applied in actual situations on the street. Since stress has this affect on coordination and mental processes, we must ensure techniques taught to law enforcement Officers will hold up in the most desperate of stressful environments.
In view of the foregoing three things should be eliminated from a weapons training program to the greatest extent possible; [a] Complicated, intricate movements; [ b ] Visual cues; and [c] Conditional branching. Everything the Officer does with the weapon should involve only general movements with the hands and arms. The more complicated the technique, the higher the probability it will breakdown under stress and, therefore, the more thoroughly it must be ingrained. Officers should be able to do everything by feel and by sound. Everything Officers do with a weapon, they should be able to do in the dark. Remember, they should be trained for all environments, and if they require visual cues before executing a move, they wont be able to function in reduced light or when their night vision is destroyed by muzzle flash and spotlights.
Conditional branching is a data processing term that refers to a split in a computer flow chart. In other words, the computer must make a decision and go one way or another. If a trainee is asked to make a lot of critical decisions under stress, he/she will fall apart. So, four or five different shooting techniques taught based on the distance to the target. Rather, only one technique is taught so the officer will master it with the objective that he will shoot that way regardless of the range.
The technique should be step by step and unconditional so the shooter has no decisions to make other than the one to shoot. For the range officer teaching a course, make sure that what you are teaching these people will hold up and serve them well in a high stress environment. Create a stressful environment (to the greatest extent possible) during training and test what you've been teaching.
Old techniques and procedures that do not prove their worth under this kind of testing must be discarded no matter how enshrined or traditional they are. The new generation of electronic targeting equipment is helpful and very necessary. The department should have at least two complete setups.
6. The Training Must Stress the Basics. All education is repetitive. Nearly everything you do routinely, from walking to driving, you learned by repeating it over and over. There is no such thing as instinct shooting. You were no more born with an innate ability to operate a firearm than you were with an innate ability to operate a motor vehicle.
Everything you know about weapons and shooting you learned. You learned it from television, from movies and may be even a little from range training. Unfortunately, most of what is on TV relating to firearms is useless, having not the slightest connection with reality. So, when students report to the range having watched thousands of hours of TV cop shows as they were growing up, the training expert's work is cut out for him. What the trainees learned from watching TV, they will have to unlearn as they learn the proper techniques. It will take a long time.
All their high stress moves must be properly learned and then repeated and repeated until they are so thoroughly ingrained, the student will react properly and automatically when the situation calls for the use of firearms. The basics should be re-practised and restressed during some part of every training exercise. The most important basics are shooting, reloading and use of cover. In shooting, the firing stroke (draw and firing position) and trigger control should be emphasized. The stroke is important because that is what will position the weapon at the point where it will hit. Trigger control is critical, especially with the double action weapons, because a sloppy trigger press will cause a miss even when a shooter has a good stroke.
In our training courses, we should not tell our people to count their rounds. It's too unreliable because when students try to tally their rounds in a high stress environment, they're nearly always wrong. As a rule, they will actually have fired from two to three times as many rounds as they think they have or that they recall firing.
Instead, we should tell them to reload as soon after the initial exchange as they can, regardless of how many rounds they have expended. Our officers should carry a minimum of 12 rounds on their person because instances in which officers have expended more than 12 rounds are almost unheard of.
In domestic gun fighting, encounters are usually violent and over quickly. So, we no longer try to conserve ammunition. We stress to the officer that he must keep his weapon loaded so it will be ready when he needs it. "Load when you want to, not when you have to", we tell them.
Maximum reloading time (with the weapon loaded with empty cases or an empty magazine to a loaded weapon held in a position to fire) for the double action revolver is six seconds using speedloaders; twelve seconds using a dump pouch or loops. Maximum time for magazine changing in autos is three seconds. Reloading should also be practised in the dark.
Trainees should be taught to use cover right from the beginning. The skillful use of cover involves recognizing what constitutes cover, moving to a position of cover, taking maximum advantage of the cover and shooting from behind it. The "jack-in-the-box" technique, which calls for a shooter to extend his head and shoulders out into the open, extend his arms, fire, then withdraw is no longer advocated. In the preferred method, the "Rollout", the shooter gets into a position to fire while still behind cover, then rolls out with his gun, arms and chest; moving as a whole unit, until he sees the target, fires, then rolls back. The shooter should roll out in a different place each time to confuse the adversary about his exact position.
The shotgun, on a scale of zero to ten, zero being the least desirable and ten most desirable. If a bullet resistant vest is a ten a shotgun should be an eleven. More so for our front line, first response patrol Officers. The shotgun is by far the most versatile and effective weapon of law enforcement and should be emphasized and used more than it is now. Law Enforcement administrators should understand that the handgun is a close, defensive weapon. It is not what you use when you get caught flat footed and have to shoot your way out with what you have with you. If you have time, the shotgun is the weapon of choice. If you get into a situation in which the people involved may be armed, and you approach with anything less than a shotgun you must have suicidal tendencies.
7. The Training Must Be Varied and Enjoyable. Boring training is as unnecessary as it is inexcusable. With all the things there are to learn and all the challenges there are to meet there is no reason for any shooter to be bored. Officers at the practice range should look forward to a new challenge every time they have a shooting exercise. They should learn new things, trying new courses all the time. They should know the basics, but be constantly required to apply new things to new situations.
Getting stuck in a groove is how PPC evolved. When the PPC (Practical Police Course) was shot to the exclusion of any other course, special PPC guns and PPC holsters, neither of which have the slightest utility outside the PPC range, became popular. Shooters started using "wadcutters" that barely had enough velocity to cut through the target paper. Barricades that were supposed to be used as cover were, and in some places still are, being used as a support for the gun. The whole thing has degenerated into irrelevance. Don't let this happen to your program.
Keep it fresh by introducing new challenges. One standard exercise guaranteed to spice up a range exercise is shooting up a car. The best way to show students how to use a vehicle for cover is to drag an expendable vehicle onto the range and actually use it as a prop. (The vehicle can be one of the department's tow-aways or a "bomb" from a local salvage yard.) The students can practice firing from the vehicle or from behind it, and if someone inadvertently hits it, no harm is done. This exercise is useful for demonstrating the incredible resistance of most cars to penetration by handgun bullets. Each student is given the opportunity to test the penetration of his weapon and ammunition.
Training videos are another addition that can be used to add zest to the training session. Run courses in abandoned houses, expendable caravans, buses even junk yards. Set up jungle lanes in wooded sites. Such props can be used to teach tactics. Role-playing exercises and guest lecturers are also useful. As range officer, if you are really doing your job, your people should be looking forward to every training exercise and should not be saying things like, "Do we have to shoot again?".
8. The Training Must Be Complete. Just as there is more to successful gun fighting than just launching bullets, there is more to weapons training than merely teaching the physical operation of the weapon. The complete weapons training program should include shooting (handgun and shotgun), reloading, tactics and legal and psychological implications.
Students need to know not only how to shoot, but when and when not to shoot. No police officer is ready for the street unless he can hit any reasonable target with his handgun or shotgun on demand and under stress. A good stroke and a good trigger will produce a hit. In training, don't only do a lot of shooting, do a lot of hitting. Reloading should be learned along with shooting. Tactics include recognition of danger signs, use of cover, movement, target identification (decision-making) and situation engineering. Again, it's not enough merely to talk about tactics.
Training scenarios must be set up that compel the shooters to use the individual tactics being taught. Human figure targets are very useful for teaching target recognition a wide selection is available. The departments must have a policy with regard to the use of deadly force. Every Officer must understand what the policy is and be trained accordingly. Topics such as the shooter's psychological reaction to violent death must also be addressed.
9. The Training Must Be Documented. No one can deny the usefulness of carefully maintained records in a civil or criminal case. Whenever an officer shoots someone in the line of duty, the department may be sued. Not only will the state be sued, but each of the Officers involved the Commissioner, the training officer, the manufacturer of the ammunition anyone the injured party thinks he can get money from. You can't avoid being sued, but you can avoid being sued successfully. Neat, carefully maintained training records look impressive in court and convey the impression of conscientiousness and professionalism. Every weapons training session, no matter how small or informal must be carefully recorded, with every attending officer properly credited. If the training officer on the stand responds to a question about the department's weapons training program with, "Well, sir, we qualify once a year", it's all downhill from there.
10. The Training Must Be Cost effective. Training is as difficult to sell as life insurance, because that's what it really is. When the politician spend money, they want to see something for it If equipment is purchased, they can see physically where the money has been spent. But, when dollars go toward training, results are the only tangible evidence. Since it's so difficult to get money committed to training, as much quality training as possible should be squeezed out of each dollar. Some savings can be gleaned through dry-fire practice, since it does not consume ammunition.
Skip-shooting is also an excellent exercise. An exciting part of any training exercise is a bowling pin shoot a reactive target is always good therapy for the shooter. The bowling pins can be had at nominal cost Steel falling plates make another excellent reactive target that can be used over and over and can be made at low cost. Quality training doesn't just happen, you have to make it happen. Even the expenditure of a lot of money on new training equipment will not automatically guarantee good training.
What will guarantee good training is a firm commitment to it that begins with the top people. Until now, most of the safety and training innovations have come about because the staff demanded up-to-date training and equipment, not because it was pushed on them by superiors. This is not as it should be. The department leadership should be pushing for better training all the time. They should be open to new ideas, new techniques, new equipment. Law enforcement personnel will live or die as a result of the training they have received. Don't wait until more Officers are involved in a shooting incidents to provide quality training the time for that training is NOW.
Michael Kay.
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~mickay/train.htm
There's a whole more at their site!
Also posted on GUNS.
Combat Handgun Practice
"By practising for both speed and accuracy, you can develop important hand gunning skills while enjoying your shooting."
By Michael Kay
When you go to the range to practice, do you see how fast you can fire using the target as a backdrop, or do you carefully place each shot, striving for a tight group? To acquire the skills needed in a defensive situation you have to do a little of both. The key in defensive shooting is not to see how accurately you can fire a handgun, but how quickly you can fire it accurately. To develop effective defensive skills, you should practice gun movement and quick firing while maintaining sight alignment. Sound difficult? It is at first, but by rehearsing a few basic drills, your skills will greatly improve.
GENERAL SHOOTING TIPS: The act of firing a rifle, pistol, shotgun or other firearm accurately is made up of a combination of the following skills. Mastering these skills, and repeating them as consistently as possible, each and every time you fire your gun, forms the foundation of accurate shooting.
ATTITUDE: The attitude you take to the shooting range will largely be reflected in your shooting. If you have convinced yourself, "I'll never be able to shoot any better than I do right now", chances are you'll never get any better. However, if each day you go to the shooting range, you say to yourself, "Today I'm going to shoot more accurately and more consistently than I ever have before", pretty soon you'll notice you're shooting more accurately and more consistently! Simply put, the more positive your attitude is about shooting, the better your shooting will become. Imagine yourself shooting nothing but bull's-eyes, and before you know it, you will be doing just that.
EQUIPMENT: Your equipment should be in good repair, functional and above all else, clean. Even as you shoot, you should maintain a certain level of cleanliness. Don't be afraid to clean the bore and chamber of your rifle or pistol after every couple of shoots to maintain consistent functioning and accuracy. Firearm items, such as screws, sights, scopes or rings should be tightly secured. Rifle and pistol barrels should be free from obstructions and kept away from contact with other objects. Simply resting the barrel of your rifle on a support (such as a universal bipod) can influence the direction of your shot. Ammunition should be clean and undamaged. Whenever possible, use high quality (match grade) ammunition. During any particular practice session, you should try to use ammunition that is from the same manufacturer and of the same type (i.e. bullet weight and design). Ammunition from the same box or closely produced boxes is ideal. Always remember that consistency is the key to accurate shooting.
BODY POSITION: Whether you are firing a rifle or pistol, you'll want to maintain a body position that affords you two things. First, and most importantly is comfort. Few can consistently fire accurate shots while in a position that is uncomfortable. Second, is support. Your position should allow your bones and muscles (i.e. your body) to provide proper support for your weapon. If you are firing a pistol, this may be no more than holding your arms out in front of you. While firing a rifle may involve the use of a bench or other stationary supports. Don't be afraid to try different positions until you hit on one (or more) that work well for you.
GRIP: How you hold your rifle, pistol or shotgun can directly effect how accurately you shoot. A grip that is too loose, will not afford the stability needed while firing a high powered weapon, while a grip that is too tight, may tend to influence your shoots or restrict an otherwise smooth trigger pull. An even, unhindered grip works best. When firing a pistol, your free hand should support, not grip your firing hand. For rifles, your free hand should steady or support the forearm or buttstock of the weapon. Once you find a grip that works well, be consistent about it.
BREATHING: Controlling your breathing goes along way towards increasing your accuracy. The act of breathing (inhaling and exhaling) actually moves your body enough to keep you from getting a really steady sight picture. By momentarily holding your breath, just before you take your final aim and squeeze the trigger, you'll remove that extra shaking associated with breathing. However, don't make the mistake of holding your breath too long, as oxygen deprivation can set in and introduce blurry vision or additional body shaking. The best breathing method involves taking one or two full breaths, then releasing the air and holding your breath momentarily as you squeeze off a shot. You may find other methods also work well, don't be affair to use the method that works best for you. But again, be consistent about it.
SIGHT PICTURE: Sight picture is very important to accurate shooting, after all, if you can't see it clearly, aiming will be very difficult, if not impossible. Additionally, if you aren't seeing your target in the same way each time, you'll have greater difficulty hitting the same spot with each successive shot. Therefore, the two most important aspects of sight picture are clarity and consistency. The picture you see, whether through a scope or with iron sights, should be clear and sharp. Concentrate on a specific point, don't just aim "at the target" select a very small location on the target and aim at that spot. When using a scope, your sight picture should be round and without dark "half moon" areas. For iron sights, your target and sighting post should be aligned and in focus. Sometimes looking away briefly and then looking back before taking final aim will help to refocus things. Being consistent about your sight picture is equally important. Whether you decide to shoot with one eye closed, or both eyes open, be consistent about it, don't change midstream. Did I mention consistency is the key?
TRIGGER PULL: Pulling the trigger should be the only motion involved in firing your weapon, and as such, it must be smooth and precise. Pulling the trigger should not effect (i.e. move in any way) any part of the gun other than the trigger. Sloppy or inconsistent trigger pull will cause more inaccuracy than any other aspect of shooting. When pulling the trigger, you should use the tip of your finger (not the body of it) because this is the most sensitive part available to you and pull the trigger straight back. Pulling at an angle, even slightly, can change your point of aim prior to firing. Dry firing (i.e. pulling the trigger without a live round in the chamber) is beyond a doubt the best exercise for increasing your accuracy. Practice this over and over, until you can squeeze the trigger without moving your gun at all. Balancing a dim (or other small object) on the barrel as you dry fire will enhance your ability to keep the weapon still while pulling the trigger. Note: the firing pins on many weapons can be damaged by dry firing, contact your local gunsmith or gun store for plastic dummy rounds that will protect the firing pin while dry firing your gun.
FOLLOW THROUGH: The instant the trigger is completely pulled, the hammer is released. The time between the hammer being released and striking the firing pin (firing the chambered round) is called lock time. Any movement, such as letting up on the trigger, relaxing your grip or anticipating recoil, during this lock time, can greatly effect accuracy. Some guns have quicker lock times than others, but regardless, you should concentrate on following though with each and every shot you fire. No movement should occur until well after the bullet penetrates its target. Only then should you let up on the trigger, adjust your grip or change your sight picture.
CONSISTENCY: The more consistent you are in your shooting, the more accurate you'll become. Without a doubt, consistency is the key to accuracy. The closer you can come to providing the exact same conditions for each shot, right down to the cleanliness and temperature of your barrel, the more accurate your shooting will be. Become consistent and you'll become accurate.
DEFENSIVE HANDGUN PRACTICE: After you have become confident with your ability to fire a handgun safely, concentrate on sight alignment. When you raise your gun to fire, the front sight should be centred in the notch of the rear sight, and they should be even across the top. If your sights use a three-dot system, the dots should be lined up evenly. You should see the top half of the target through the sights. When firing at the target, the sights should remain in focus and the target should be a blur. Aim for the "centre of mass" and fire two shots, focusing on the front sight the entire time you are shooting. The most common error a shooter makes is to lower the gun after each shot to check the hits. This bad habit results in erratic or low shots. Keep your eyes focused on the front sight as you recover from recoil. Do not be concerned where your shots are landing at first, as long as you are hitting the target. After you have finished the shot string, look at the target to evaluate your hits. It your shots are falling within an eight-inch group at 15 yards, you are doing fine.
To develop effective defensive skills, incorporate gun movement and quick firing while maintaining sight alignment during target practice. If your shots are grouping off centre by about an inch, do not be concerned. The sights on pistols are not always precise to every shooter's eye sight and aim. If they are adjustable, you can move them so that your hits are centred. If they are fixed sights, you can work with a gunsmith to correct them or simply leave them be if the problem isn't too severe. As you practice this shooting drill, you will find your hits falling in smaller, closer groups. At this point you should speed up the time between shots, being careful to keep the front sight in focus. Begin the drill with arms relaxed and the gun in your hands. Bring the gun up to eye level, quickly align the sights on the target and fire two shots.
Lower the gun after you have finished firing and assess the target. Make sure you are following through with each shot. This means making sure your sights remain on target and your arms locked in place until you are through firing.
In a defensive situation you do not want to lower your gun until the target has retreated or dropped out of the sight picture. You may find at first that your hits are not even close together, and maybe off the target altogether. There are two causes for this. When you shoot quickly, you often do not settle into a good sight picture or stop gun movement before firing the next shot. Continued practice will remedy this. The more serious problem is the flinch. It is usually caused by snatching the trigger or pulling the gun down in anticipation of recoil. If you think you are flinching, practice pulling the trigger with your gun unloaded (known as dry firing). Alternate practising with a dry gun and with live ammunition. Take breaks in between drills and allow yourself to relax.
To vary your drills, add a second target. Fire one shot at the left target, then quickly move to the right target and fire one shot. Repeat this several times and then reverse the order. Change the number of shots fired on each. For instance, fire one shot on the first and two on the second, then two on each. Gradually work these drills into your practice sessions and, when you have become skilled at them, begin your practice with them. Start cold, with your gun on the table, muzzle facing down range.
Grasping the gun firmly, raise it to eye level, focus on the sights and fire like your life depended on it. After a few trial runs, use the remaining time at the range to work on the areas where you are weakest. Keep in mind what you are practising for, but make it enjoyable too. Be confident you are developing skills that will be invaluable in a true defensive situation.
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~mickay/shooting.htm
There's a whole more lot at their site!
Also posted on GUNS.
Enhance Your Shooting Pleasure, Moore Targets:
Visualization, or Mental Imagery
by Tom Givens
Visualization, or imagery, is one of the most effective tools
available to you for mental conditioning. This is vital to success in
a fight. Under stress, your subconscious mind will immediately take
over and direct your body to do whatever the subconscious has been
programmed to do. If you have been programmed through training to
respond correctly, you will. Panic is simply the lack of a pre-
programmed response. Since your subconscious doesn't know what to do,
it does nothing. (When in danger, or in doubt, run in circles, scream
and shout!) Obviously, your odds of surviving improve drastically if
you have pre-programmed the correct tactical responses before a
crisis.
How do we program these correct responses until they become
automated? There are three ways. First, you could engage in about a
dozen gunfights. You would then be adept at making rapid, sound
tactical decisions, if you are still alive! We don't recommend this
method because the test comes first, the lesson afterward. This is a
painful and expensive way to learn.
Bismarck said , "A smart man learns from his own mistakes, a wise
man learns from the mistakes of others." This is especially true in
this business, where mistakes can be fatal. The easiest way to learn
from the mistakes of others is to read a big city newspaper each day
as you eat your breakfast. Look in the local news and select two
instances reporting the criminal victimization of some unfortunate
person. Take five or ten minutes to read these two accounts and
actually analyze them. Ask yourself two questions, and make yourself
come up with an answer.
The first question is, "What did the victim do to put himself in
this situation?" . Once you learn a bit about criminal behavior, you
realize that above all, criminals are opportunists. They capitalize
on circumstances created by inattentive, complacent, lazy, and
unobservant victims. Very soon you will learn to recognize the
behavior or activity on the part of the victim that facilitated or
even precipitated the crime. This will hold true in probably 95% of
the cases you study. Once you have identified the specific victim
behavior that caused the attack, you are reinforcing in your
subconscious that this is negative, or harmful behavior. Day after
day, by doing this, you are programming your subconscious to avoid
that type of behavior. If you don't present the opportunity, the
criminal cannot take advantage of it.
The next question is, "Alright, I was stupid and got into this
mess, how do I get myself out of it?" Make yourself think up a
solution to the tactical situation. In this manner, you are getting
practice every single day in making tactical decisions. If you make
tactical decisions every day of your life, they will come easily to
you if you find yourself in dangerous circumstances. If you have
never practiced this decision making process, how do you expect to do
it well under extreme stress?
The last technique in imagery we will discuss has to do with
mentally rehearsing confrontations, to prepare beforehand for a
confrontation. In your mind, as a normal, healthy person, there is a
very fine line between reality and fantasy. A psychopath no longer
has this distinction in his mind, and his fantasies become his
reality. A normal mind blurs this distinction under several
circumstances. If you are an avid reader, for instance, you "see" the
action of a good novel or historical account unfolding in your mind
as you read. You form mental images of the characters and events, as
if you had seen them yourself. How many times have you wakened from
a vivid dream and took a few seconds to orient yourself? These are
examples of that blurred distinction between reality and fantasy.
Airline pilots periodically receive training in a flight
simulator, which is an enclosed box mounted on hydraulic jacks. Upon
entering the simulator, the pilot is seated in a cockpit seat, a
control panel is arrayed before him, and the "windshield" has a back
projected image on it, just like the view from a plane. As the pilot
applies control movements to the stick and so forth, the "plane"
responds with motion. Within a few moments, the pilot's brain is
fully convinced that he is flying a plane, although intellectually he
knows he is bolted to the floor of the training building. At some
point, the control panel will advise him of an emergency, and
the "plane" will simulate the movement involved, as in a sudden dive.
The pilot must immediately take corrective action to keep
from "crashing". Although they are in no real danger, these guys come
out of the simulator white knuckled and sweating, because the mind
blurred the distinction between reality and fantasy. If, at some
future date, the pilot is confronted with that actual emergency in a
real aircraft, he will automatically respond, quickly and correctly,
because his brain has learned that the correct action will save its
life.
You can do the same thing with your mind in a self defense context
by using visualization exercises. Go to a quiet room and sit in an
easy chair. Relax, and clear your mind of all thought (easy for some
of us!). Now, in your mind vividly imagine a tactical scenario. Think
of it as a daydream, if you like, but get into it and project
yourself into the action. For every imagined action by the bad guy,
direct yourself through a proper reaction. "If he does this, I'll do
that." Always direct the action to a successful outcome.
Let me give you a couple of examples. If you work in a retail
environment, ask yourself, "What am I going to do when they stick
this place up?". Visualize your work station, and the surroundings.
Where is cover? What direction could you fire in without endangering
coworkers? Is there an escape route available? Don't wait until a
hold-up man is standing across the counter from you to think about
this. If you are a boss, ask yourself, "What am I going to do if a
disgruntled employee comes plodding down the hall with a shotgun?".
Is there any other way out of your office? Is there any real cover
available? Where is the secretary? You might find you want to
rearrange your office. Find out now, not while under fire!
There are really only a dozen or so ways for a thug to criminally
victimize you. White collar crime has endless opportunities for
innovation, but street crime is pretty straightforward. Over a period
of time, you can visualize your way through just about all of the
likely forms of street crime, and have pre-programmed responses filed
away in the back of your mind (the subconscious) ready for deployment
if faced with a similar circumstance.
If you are faced with a life threatening crisis in a form you have
never seriously considered or given any thought to, you will likely
hesitate just long enough to lose. If, on the other hand, you take a
little time to practice these "simulations", you can program ready
responses and be able to retain control of yourself and your actions.
Your mind needs to know that there is a way out, and that you know
what it is. This avoids panic, and allows you to act decisively,
which is your salvation.
www.rangemaster.com
Gun Control Is Hitting What You're Aiming At!!!
Note: Alsop posted on the GUNS board.
Reading Targets, Spoting & Correcting Errors
The following are the most common errors among new shooters. Learning
to recognize, explain, and coach the shooter in correcting these
deficiencies is an important skill for instructors. If you shoot on
your own, you can use these tips to self diagnose your errors and
work on correcting them.
To better visualize these comments, imagine a clock face superimposed
on the target. Twelve o'clock is at the top, six o'clock at the
bottom, and so on.
1. Hits low, at six o'clock- This can be caused by several
physical acts, but the underlying cause of all of them is
anticipation of the gun firing. Most shooters are not really bothered
by recoil, it is the blast (noise and flash) that shocks their
nervous systems, causing a flinching reaction. This must be overcome
by concentration and practice. Ball and dummy drills are helpful. The
physical manifestations to watch for are:
a. tightening the grip as the trigger is pressed
b. canting the gun hand wrist downward as the trigger is pressed
c. jerking the trigger.
2. Hits at three o'clock or nine o'clock- These are generally
the result of sideways pressure on the trigger. If too little finger
contacts the trigger, the gun will be pushed sideways as it fires. If
too much finger is in the trigger guard, the muzzle will be pulled to
the side as the gun fires. Shooter needs to place the pad of the
finger on the trigger and press straight to the rear.
These are also often the result of combining a small hand and a large
double-column grip frame. The first joint of the shooter's trigger
finger, the joint that attaches the finger to the palm, is touching
the frame. As the trigger finger flexes to pull the trigger, that
part of the finger pushes against the frame. The fix is to bend the
trigger finger, creating a gap between that joint and the pistol's
frame.
3. Hits at five o'clock or seven o'clock- This is almost always
the result of jerking the trigger. The trigger is snatched too
quickly, pulling the muzzle down and to the side. Be sure to take up
the slack, then press the trigger straight to the rear smoothly.
4. Hits at twelve o'clock- This can be caused by two errors. By
far the most common is looking over the sights at the target. As the
gun is raised, the shooter fails to pull in his vision focus to meet
the front sight. This leaves the shooter focussed on the target,
looking over the top of the gun. Most shooters hit high when they do
this. This can also be caused by convulsively squeezing the gun just
as it fires. This causes the heel of the hand to push the lower part
of the backstrap forward, elevating the muzzle. Thus, this is
called 'heeling."
5. Scattered hits all over the target- Lack of consistency in
grip, sight focus, trigger control, or some combination.
There are only four basics involved in 99% of combat shooting. They
are:
SIGHT ALIGNMENT, SIGHT PICTURE, TRIGGER CONTROL, FOLLOW THROUGH.
The shooter simply must concentrate on these three critical
elements for success!
www.rangemaster.com
Gun Control Is Hitting What You're Aiming At!!!
Note: Also posted on the GUNS board.
What Guns Should You Own?
by Brad Edmonds
May 11, 2004
When I write articles in defense of gun ownership, I get emails from readers who don't own guns, but think they should. The usual question is, "what guns are the best ones, and why?" The short answer is, there's no short answer. Who you are and the circumstances you face together determine what would be the best weapons for you. That being the case, it is possible to make some general statements that readers may find useful, so here they are:
One of the best personal weapons is a .45-caliber pistol.* The primary advantage of the .45 is its stopping power. With an expanding (hollow-point) round, the .45 will make a .45-inch hole where it enters a person, and a large hole where it leaves the person – if it leaves him. The bullet travels relatively slowly, giving it time to expand; and it has a lot of weight, which helps literally stop the forward motion of an attacker. It packs a huge punch. More "powerful" handguns, such as a .357 magnum or my 10mm pistol (effectively a .40 magnum), by contrast, send the bullet at too high a speed for it to expand much when it hits a person. These more "macho" weapons are not as effective at stopping an attacker as a .45.
Disadvantages of the .45 include its size and weight; its relatively low ammo capacity compared to, say, a 9mm pistol; and the fact that it's a pistol, which means maintenance is more time consuming and complicated than for a revolver. Hence, a 9mm pistol is a good alternative. Its higher ammo capacity helps make up for its lower stopping power, and its lower weight and milder recoil make it more suitable for folks with smaller forearms.
With pistols and revolvers alike, smaller caliber can (but doesn't necessarily) mean greater ammo capacity, milder recoil, and smaller overall size – an advantage for concealment. You, perhaps with the help of a personal advisor, must decide which tradeoffs are best for you.
Revolvers will almost always be able to hold only six cartridges, compared to (usually) around nine for a .45, and 10 to 16 for a 9mm pistol. Also, revolvers, for a given level of power, tend to have greater recoil than pistols. Pistols absorb some of the recoil by using it to load the next round. The advantages: Revolvers tend to be smaller than pistols, and tend to require only simple, speedy maintenance.
The next question is whether you need a handgun at all. If you want something you can carry on your person, then a handgun is the only choice. If you want something strictly for home defense, a handgun is a pretty bad choice. In the heat of the moment, it may be very difficult to hit your target. For home defense, you want a shotgun. The best ones for home defense have short barrels and no choke.** You want to paste the biggest area possible. The only reason a shotgun isn't the best thing for carrying on your person is its large size.
What sort of shotgun you want is the next issue, the question being whether you want a pump-action or semi-automatic shotgun.
I prefer the pump shotgun for my own house, and I don't keep a round in the chamber ready to fire. This offers two advantages: The sound of you pumping the shotgun to load a round will give a warning, which will usually be enough to send an intruder fleeing. More important, in the case that a member of your own family shocks you awake, you give them a chance to say "it's me." (Don't get the idea that this ever really happens – given the mainstream media bias against guns, we'd hear about it every time a homeowner shot a family member in the middle of the night, mistaking him for an intruder. Such cases are exceedingly rare.)
Ex-military types have written me to say that pumping the shotgun is a bad idea – it gives away your position and your strength. That is absolutely correct in combat situations. If you've crept into a building in enemy territory, you don’t want to give away your position. You might find yourself surrounded by the enemy. At home, however, if the lights are off, you DO want to be sure whom you're shooting, and you are not likely to be surrounded by intruders. If there's more than one intruder, they're still likely to flee at the sound of the pump action. If they don't flee at the sound of a shotgun, you're in an extremely unusual and dangerous circumstance. Consult people with more expertise than I have for those situations, but common sense is a partial guide.
For example, if you and your wife are the only adults in your home, and you see an adult-sized silhouette across the room while you can feel your wife next to you on the bed, the silhouette is very likely to be an intruder. Still, this is a serious subject and deserves the most serious consideration. Only you can decide the probability of your making a bad decision in a heated moment. I can say this much: Learning, discussing, and rehearsing will vastly improve the likelihood of your making a good decision if the occasion ever arises.
Finally, with a pump shotgun, you can have a round in the chamber, and fire without the pump-action announcement. With a semi-automatic shotgun, you don't have the option of making the pump noise before firing. And in the dark, you can always pump the shotgun and then quickly and quietly move a couple of paces to one side, separating you from the location the noise came from. You don't even have to be extremely quiet; a shotgun pumping can just about make your ears ring in the middle of a quiet night.
High-powered rifles are not good for personal or indoor home defense. I still say homes should have them, as they are a persuasive last line of community defense against foreign invasion or your own government coming to take your guns away, à la Waco. High-powered rifles pack an extreme punch, and have a very long range compared to handguns and shotguns.
So those are the options: handgun, shotgun, and rifle. There is a best weapon – or, more accurately, best of each category – for you. But a columnist can't advise you by email. You must learn for yourself, and the fastest way to do that is go to a gun shop and ask questions (in addition to doing some reading). The guy at the gun shop can look at you, listen to you, and ask his own questions.
A columnist can't even advise you whether you should buy a gun at all. For example, you may be manic-depressive, or live with someone who is. A gun in the house might present an unacceptable suicide risk. The only thing I can say with certainty to someone I don't know is this: An armed populace will experience lower crime rates, less risk of foreign invasion, and less risk of being subjects of a totalitarian government than a disarmed populace. I own a pistol and a shotgun, and am shopping for a rifle.
*A pistol is a semi-automatic handgun. When you fire a semi-automatic handgun, the weapon uses the recoil from the discharging round to load the next cartridge and cock the hammer. All you have to do is pull the trigger. A revolver, by contrast, requires you to cock the hammer manually after each shot. When you cock the hammer, that action revolves the barrel that holds the ammunition, positioning the next cartridge for firing.
**"Choke" is a narrowing of the inside of the barrel near the muzzle (the end of the barrel you point at the target). Choke produces a tighter pattern of the shot you're firing, which is great for hunting, particularly if you're a good shooter, but bad for home defense.
Brad Edmonds [send him mail], author of the new book There’s a Government in Your Soup, coming this summer, writes from Alabama.
Note: Also posted on the GUNS board.
Mat Commom Sense & Logic Rule!!!
Attn: Please Vote!!! Cnn Poll: Should the federal ban on assault weapons be...
http://www.cnn.com/2004/US/South/05/09/gun.control.rally.ap/index.html
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